Replies

1. 
   BrianF | Dec 20, 2005 03:28am | #1

   I would think a painted floor will be more slippery, unless you are planning on some sort of non-skid paint.

1. 
   PeteMoss | Dec 22, 2005 04:56pm | #8

   If you really want to do it up right, check these guys out.

   http://www.vseal.com/

   There vseal product actually changes the surface of the concrete on the molecular level to make it into a impentrable hard surface. Therefore there is not a film that can wear off or delaminate.

2. 
   stevo_wis | Dec 20, 2005 05:25am | #2

   I just saw an article about epoxy floor paint. I havent checked it out but I think it said $4/foot and it has to be washed with special solutions first. The article also had snap together mats and others that are as wide as 12 feet. Cost started at $2. I think this is the way I am going to go for my garage and basement shop.
   If anyone has more info, I would appreciate it.

   thanks,

   Stevo

1. 
   Pippins | Dec 20, 2005 04:15pm | #3

   Stevo, I recently coated my garage floor with the U-Coat-It epoxy flooring. It is absolutely bullet proof.

   http://www.ucoatit.com/

   The floor prep is the key. The floor had 20 years of use with the typical oil and grease stains. I cleaned a dozen times and then etched with muriatic acid. 

   A friend of mine used the flecks of color and the high gloss top coat. This is an error. The flecks look like left over dirt and the high gloss shows every concrete flaw.

   The down side is the cost. My 2 car garage was $350 which included the shipping.

   If I had to do it over again, I would still use the U-Coat-It and order an extender kit. The basic kit will cover the two car garage with two coats. My floor was fairly rough and I would have liked to put down another coat.

   Steve Pippins   

     

3. 
   stantheman | Dec 20, 2005 09:38pm | #4

   sawdustandshavings

   I used a product called Hot Trax which is made for garage floors.  THe name refers to it not coming off when you park a car (hot tires) on it, which regular paint would.   It is some kind of latex paint, not epoxy, so all you need to do is surface prep and roll it on.  It as something like $25/gallon, so much cheaper than coating.  I got it at regular ACE hardware.  I think the Depot carries similar Behr product.

    

    

1. 
   sawdustandshavings | Dec 21, 2005 09:48pm | #5

   cheers stan!!!, brilliant.

   Sawdust.'It's not a mistake It's a design feature'

4. 
   user-4104125 | Dec 21, 2005 11:58pm | #6

   I have used this Rustoleum product for the basement floor (my shop floor).  It is easy to put down, it works well, and it is inexpensive.  I researched a bunch of different products.  You can this product at Home Depot.  My floor was done a year ago and it ihas no problems.

   http://www.rustoleum.com/Project.asp?frm_project_id=29&ddp=29&SBL=1

5. 
   tomone | Dec 22, 2005 03:57am | #7

   I used Behr floor and deck laytex paint on the floor of our garage/workshop. Only preparation was sweep the floor. Rolled/brushed the paint on. Makes a BIG difference in keeping the "shop" clean. But, there are signs (after six months) of wear at the tires at rest locations. I'll touch-up the spots in the spring, after the thaw.

6. 
   Jfrostjr | Dec 23, 2005 05:17pm | #9

   Three years ago I did my shop floor (a previous garage bay) with Rust Oleum Epoxy from a local hardware store. I first cleaned the floor of grease and oil spots with the included citrus cleaner. The next day I applied the epoxy (grey; tan available) and chose to sprinkle the little flakes on top. It looks great - and works even better. Sweep-up is now a snap.

   The following year I did the remaining two garage bays. They have survived Michigan winters and dripping road salt very well.

   The major caveat - IF your floor has been treated with a "sealer" the epoxy does NOT stick to those areas.

   Jerry

1. 
   mjfurniture | Jan 03, 2006 06:38am | #10

   I stumbled onto this by accident and it make a perfect coating for concrete floors.  Several years ago I spilled some POR 15 ( its a rust preventive paint for auto body and will permently stick to anything). I tried wiping it up but essentially ended up just painting the floor with the spillage.  I tossed some fine sand onto it thinking would help pick up some of the material and could be scraped off.  Well 8 years later the spill is still there and is the most skid resistant stuff I have ever walked on.

   Marty

1. 
   sawdustandshavings | Jan 05, 2006 09:54pm | #11

   huh, i'll give that one a think over!!!!'It's not a mistake It's a design feature'

7. 
   user-86952 | Jan 07, 2006 11:45pm | #12

   With any paint project is 90% of the work. If your shop is also your garage use an epoxy rated for floors. If not any top line latex floor paint will work well. The lower sheen will give you a better slip resistance than a gloss.The surface temp. of the floor must be 50f or 10c for three days for it to cure.After you paint. If your floor has been sealed don't paint.Test with a few drops of water if the water soaks in within a few minutes.There is no sealer. Follow the lable on the can. The acid is to etch only it is not a cleaner or degreaser.Clean the floor brfore acid etching.
   The results are as good as the prep.

8. 
   eddiefromAustralia | Jan 27, 2006 12:58pm | #13

   Sawdust,

   If you're near a mine or plant - speak to the maintenance manager and arrange an offcut of a worn conveyor belt - a 1500mm/60" wide conveyor belt is excellent as a floor in a workshop, and it stays flat.  They'll probably be happy to give it to you as it costs money to dump it.   As well, this option makes your floor smooth immediately.

   I used to live next door to a flooring installer - my shop is covered in offcuts of vinyl - two or three different shade of the ends of rolls that they couldn't sell, but it works well and sweeps up easily.   This would telegraph the roughness in the floor, similarly to the paint

   Cheers,

   eddie

   
   

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   Edited 1/27/2006 5:00 am by eddiefromAustralia