Hi all,
I’m building an extension on my home which will include a workshop on the ground floor. I would like to paint the slab before I move my equipment in. The question is, what is a good durable paint that will work well on a concrete floor?
A little info about the slab itself. It is 4” concrete over 6” X 6” wire mesh, over radiant heat tubing, over vapor barrier, over insulation, over 4” of gravel.
Epoxy paint, urethane…..? All suggestions helpful.
Thanks,
Jay
Replies
My recommendation is to just use a couple of coats of latex concrete sealer, mopped on, with a couple of coats of industrial liquid wax over that. I have had it on my shop floor for five years and it works very well. It's cheap, easy, and maintenance is very low. I vacuum and mop it once in a while, and put on another coat of wax once a year on the wear areas.
Check out the rustolium epoxy floor products at home depot. I'm a Painter (and a woodworker) and I've used it on more than a few customers garage floors, they make two models one for inside and another for outside. It comes in a kit so you have everything you need. They also sell a repair kit, should you need it. I've used it, it was easy and quick, my customers love it, I currently have 4 clients waiting for me to apply in there garage (all neighbors) and it's inexpensive (under $60). The one issue is that it takes a little why to fully cure. It might be ideal for you.
"Check out the rustolium epoxy floor products at home depot."
Scott,
Can you tell us about the prep required before application of this product?
Thanks,-Jazzdogg-
Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.
Jazzdog,
sweep and clean the floor get up all the stuff stuck to it. Then, scrub it with muratic acid, it comes in the kit. Then hose it off, let it dry, paint the stuff on. The kit comes with everything you need and I think it still even comes with a video. I have only applied this stuff only on fairly new construction on previously unpainted floors so I can't speak for those situations. This is something I do as kinda an add on, (while I'm painting there house, "Oh yeah thres this stuff") it's not something I would get into in all situations where you got grease and old painted surfaces, I'm sure you can do it, and there are products and tools for that, but that would be more than I'm willing to do. Generally I can do this easily in less than a 1/2 a day. So it's a good Saturday job. Recently, I did three garage floors on the same day, all on the same block, I was home by 2:00, at $125 a shot not a bad day. But my point is that if you've got an already relatively clean, paint free floor this is a quick and easy prcedure. Follow the instructions, the epoxy is 2 part and has to cure for an hour before application.
Scott
Thanks for the info, Scott.
The unpleasant experience of applying hydrochloric acid to the floor of an enclosed garage sounds exactly like the kind of job I'd be willing to hire someone else to perform - it's bad enough when used in the open air.-Jazzdogg-
Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.
"Epoxy is 2 part and has to cure for an hour before application."
Scott could you clarify this?
Edited 6/26/2005 10:26 am ET by Bart
youll get two cans in the kit. 1 can is standard gallon paint can and the other is a quart size. You pour the quart into the gallon (there is room) then you mix it up good. Let this sit for an hour mixing occasionally and then mix it good again before application. I usually cut in with a paint brush around the floor, if the epoxy is not fully cured there will be little string type peices about a 1/2" long or so. In that case you would let it cure awhile longer. It should flow out pretty much just like paint.
Thanks Scott
I was confused epoxy usually glues set up quickly I guess the paint set up slower.
Think about putting down wood. 4 x 8 sheets of Blandex or equiv. It is T & G underlayment that is impervious to water. No glue is needed. I put it directly on a slab and have had no problems. With floor heating, it will be heaven.
Do run a dehumidifier constantly until the moisture is reduced from the curing concrete.
If you drop a tool, it will be more likely to survive - especially sharp edges such as chisels.
Also much, repeat much, easier on the feet.
Edited 6/25/2005 9:06 pm ET by 81treehouse
For feeling the radiant heat, nothing is better than black. While it would be tempting to paint it white for keeping the shop bright, the only thing worse is chrome.
concrete stain
what't your primary purpose of coating the floor? cleanability?
Stick on linoleum tiles are cheeap, repairable, and will last for years and years, unless you leave a solvent puddle on the floor. Liquid nails will fix that though. Big tiles, will also come up with that floor heater of yours from thermal expansion. I would stay under 12"x12".
Glue and epoxies will come off, or the tile can be replaced, cheap and easier than dealing with a painted floor too.
If its a new floor & cleaned & etched properly the epoxies should last a long time I'm not sure about an old floor I guess it would depend on what was spilled on it & how well it was cleaned & how well the etching was done.
After that get some of the interlocking rubber mats they will save your legs, feet & tools.
I have vinyl tiles in my basement next to the shop. I was going to extend them into the shop until I got a little sawdust on them and almost broke my neck. The tiles are VERY SLIPPERY with just a bit of sawdust on them. Otherwise they would be great. Maybe you can get some with a textured surface.
My 2 cents, worth every penny.
Paul
If you're gathering votes, mine would be for BM alkyd Porch and Deck enamel, which has a urethane component.
I painted my shop floor with this stuff more than 20 years ago (a light tan), and I am honestly amazed by how well it has held up. It doesn't wear off, and the only chips come from something metal dropped (like a hammer) or glue spills which I scrape up if they're big.
I'm sure you're aware that concrete should be allowed to fully cure before you put anything on it. I might add that mine was maybe 50 years old when I painted it.
Consider adding one of those anti-skid powders to the first coat of paint. Some folks use sand, but even the fine variety is too coarse for my taste. "Safe Step" is one commonly available brand. Can't really see it, but it does the job.
That said, they are some very nice epoxy products that are specifically formulated for relatively new concrete floors.
Also, if you're going to spend a lot of time on this floor, you might also consider something like laminate flooring. There are a lot of Pergo knock-offs out there that sell for as little as $1/square foot. Your feet would appreciate the 1/4" foam pad the flooring is laid on, and this stuff is pretty much bullet-proof (i.e. for moving machines around).
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"I tend to live in the past because most of my life is there."
-- Herb Caen (1916-1997)
I did not read all the posts, so pardon me if I repeat.
1. It's a shop. Why paint it?
2. Be wary of epoxies. They are very sensitive to moisture in the concrete. If the slab has even a small amount of moisture epoxies won't adhere well, so you must make sure the slab is bone dry before coating with epoxies.
Why paint it? Well, it sure makes grease spots, or any other spill, alot easier to clean up.
Also, mine will get epoxied this summer (once we've had a few hot, dry weeks to make sure the concrete is bone-dry) because I want to seal in the humidity that comes through it in the winter. In his case, he has a vapor barrier underneath, so it may not be important in this regard.
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