Replies

1. 
   LeeGrinding1 | Mar 14, 2003 07:17am | #1

   Latex paint does not work. Enamel paint works poorly if at all.

   You need to get a coating on the ends as soon as possible because it will be inneffective if end checking begins before you get the end coating applied. In your instance the easiest and most economical means would be to melt some paraffin in a double boiler and apply it with a brush or dabbed on thickly with a rag. Paraffin is available in grocery stores.

   Lee

   Lee Grindinger

   Furniture Carver

1. 
   ROW904 | Mar 15, 2003 01:30am | #5

   Thanks for your advice. Wax seems to be the smart fix . As a green woodworker its a big help. Bob.

1. 
   LeeGrinding1 | Mar 15, 2003 01:45am | #6

   Anchorseal is a product formulated specifically for your purpose. I suggested paraffin because of the small amount you actually need however, if you were to need any real quantity of an end coating product Anchorseal will be more economical in the long run. To end coat a board or two paraffin is an easy way to go.

   Lee.Lee Grindinger

   Furniture Carver

1. 
   PlaneWood | Mar 15, 2003 04:46am | #7

   Liquid Asphaltum available at most hardware stores (ACE) will work and can be brushed on with a stiff bristled brush.  You can buy it in quarts, gallons, 5 gallons.  Used for patching roofs.  Get the kind with NO FIBER content.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_KatyPlaneWood

2. 
   rslatm | Mar 16, 2003 11:32pm | #8

   The problem I had using paraffin wax is the mice chewed it off.

2. 
   crt2cu2 | Mar 14, 2003 07:59am | #2

   Bob,

   I agree with Lee's post where he recommends coating the end grain with melted wax- a thick coat. I would add though that it is imperative to cut the pith (center) of the log/slab out. End checking always seems to start and radiate from the log center. Another good idea is to liberally wax coat any knots and slant grain on face or edge.

   You might be safer to avoid checking by keeping the bark on the slab for a year and delay moving it up into the attic heat for another year. What thickness is the slab? Proper air drying takes a long time. Try to be patient. Can you get some small pieces of the wood? Maybe you could use small pieces as a rough measure of moisture content by weighing on an interval basis. I think Jon Arno would be able to provide technical advice also.

   sawick

3. 
   jako17 | Mar 14, 2003 03:21pm | #3

   I use  a product called Anchorseal a water soluble wax product sold for end coating green logs .But time is of the essence so if you cannot get it easily heat parrafin as mentioned.Lee valley also sells a sealer in smaller amounts at a generous mark up.

4. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Mar 14, 2003 10:24pm | #4

   I use asphalt emulsion sold for roof repairs.   The stuff is waterproof, and it is intended for patching roofs that are leaking and wet.   That is, it bonds happily to your wet wood.  It is kinda thick -- I smear it on with a putty knife.  You can find the stuff in any building store that sells roofing materials, and it isn't expensive.