Replies

1. 
   willy | Apr 12, 2007 12:40pm | #1

   IMHO, depends on the wood. If open grained such as oak, ash, I would give it a wash coat of white paint then immediately wipe it so the grain is highlighted then finish with poly. If you want solid white, I would prime it and the final coat would be melamine white.

2. 
   hammer1 | Apr 12, 2007 03:27pm | #2

   I do a lot of painted pieces. Paint doesn't cover or hide anything, so it's best to carefully prepare the work. If you have knots, coat those first with white pigmented shellac, two applications. This is called spot priming. You just coat the knots not the whole thing with the pigmented shellac. The next step is to prime the entire piece, I like a good quality oil based primer. My favorite paint is Benjamin Moore's oil based Satin Impervo. Like the name, it is not shinny high gloss but a more mellow medium gloss. Two coats is usually plenty.

   You don't have to sand after the primer unless you have a run or drip, the same between coats of paint. You don't need any coating over the paint. The oil based paint will level itself, leaving very little in the way of brush marks. Use a good quality brush. You will have a traditional looking painted piece when complete, and it will last years.

   You can also use enamels or acrylic paint. Enamels are often higher gloss and acrylics require excellent brush technique. You can't go back and tip off acrylic, you have to lay it down right the first time. Latex is not a good choice for shelves.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

1. 
   kenney66 | Apr 12, 2007 05:49pm | #3

   Thanks hammer, thats the kind of info i was looking for.  Surface preparation is the key.  I appreciate you taking the time.

   I should have time to work on it now, we got 3-5 inches of snow in chicago yesterday.

   kenney66

3. 
   blewcrowe | Apr 13, 2007 05:53pm | #4

   Definitely put a coat of shellac on before painting. Otherwise, the pitch from the pine will bleed through and give you brown stains after a short period of time.

1. 
   Gretchen | Apr 13, 2007 08:54pm | #5

   You can even use the spray can of KILZ on the knots.Gretchen

4. 
   Pondfish | Apr 14, 2007 08:00pm | #6

   Don't spot prime, prime the entire surface using a shellac-based primer like BIN123 or Kilz.  Lightly sand the surface with 220 after priming to knock down any raised grain or crud.

   2 coats of a good latex is needed; sand between coats only if you have nasty brush marks; but if you use a good quality brush, you shouldn't.

   FHB has some info about painting, like how to cut in and how to brush.

   Good luck, go Cubs.

   Recommending the use of "Hide Signatures" option under "My Preferences" since 2005
5. 
   terrylee86 | Apr 15, 2007 11:03pm | #7

   Kenney,

   Whatever you use as a finish and whatever you use to prime it the most important advise is to prep, prep and prep.  Painted cabinets and furniture show defects much more readily than a clear finish.  To get painted cabinets you will pay a stiff premium because of the extra prep labor.  You will get the best finish by spraying oil-based paint, I don't know if that is an option.  If not still remember paint does not hide defects it brings them out.  After your first coat of primer really look for defects and fill and sand fill and sand and then fill and sand some more.  Finish coats of paint hide nothing.  I sprayed an 8' hutch satin black and the shelves and countertop were cherry.  All the cherry was done in an hour or two and that black took a week.

   Terry

1. 
   kenney66 | Apr 16, 2007 03:45am | #8

   i decided on an oil based paint and primer, can you sand after applying a coat of paint to try and knock down any high areas or dust spots?

1. 
   Joe Sullivan | Apr 16, 2007 04:01am | #9

   Kenny, the other thing to remember is that it takes much longer for paint to cure that it does to "dry." So, if you intend to put books or china or anything else on this shelf, yu need to wait two or three weeks after painting. Othersise, the paint will stick to the pressure points and not only come off your shelf, but also wreck the item you set on it.Joe

2. 
   terrylee86 | Apr 16, 2007 03:15pm | #10

   You definitely can sand anytime between coats of paint as long as the last coat is dry and cured(usually 24 hrs.) If you find imperfections you can even use a body filler compound (comes in a tube) and a squeegee to fill minor flaws.  Use 280-320 grit and sand by hand and you will have a good finish.  You can find the body filler at any auto body supply and make sure it is compatable with the paint you are using.  You won't get much grain raising after you sand your primer.  Buy a good primer!  Kilz oil-based and Zissner's are good for pine.

   Terry