Pairing red oak with sapwood onto a mesquite base, with milk paint textured area.
I had inherited a slice of red oak and had some so-so mesquite slabs I saved from a tree in my yard. I don’t necessarily think the two woods are a natural fit color wise so I initially thought I would use ferrous sulfate to blacken the top and finish with wipe on poly, since it may hold a plant or two. The base I would use tung oil or danish oil that would bring out the nice reddish cast of the mesquite.
However the slab has a sapwood ring that I though about removing, but the top between 9 and 11″ wide is already pretty narrow. Plus I like it as an outline, even though it’s softer wood.
I don’t have any other oak with sap wood to experiment with, but I am concerned the sapwood would come out a mottled color that would detract.
Any thoughts on toning or bringing these two woods into harmony would be appreciated. I have never worked with oak in the past.
Then when removing the bark I was left with some texturing on the undercut of the slab that I liked. So I thought I might refine the texture a bit and use some black over red milk paint lightly sanded to bring out a hint of the red.
The photos below show the top and bottom of the slab and the assembly clamped up.
Anyway it’s fun to think about all the options and I know I need to do some experimenting but any ideas you might have are appreciated.
Thanks
Replies
There is an old saying that I think about often."If you can't hide it...flaunt it". A good example of this is fancy exposed dovetails. So I see no reason to try to hide that sapwood....let it create interest.
On another note...I like the concept but I worry about the large top and small base. Also, the rectangular base seems to distract from all the flowing curves on the top and legs. Perhaps a bit larger base with curves???...maybe something in a semi figure 8???
I agree with the concept of if you've got something interesting, different, or unusual, "flaunt it". I think the sap wood is a very cool visual element that should be exploited.
I also agree that the base may be too small, it's hard to tell from that viewpoint, but I like the shape. I really like the contrast between the curvilinear and the rectilinear elements of the design. I think contrast is an important part of the overall aesthetic.
I'm on board with TexasBurt, the sapwood's nice. The mik paint sand-through is also nice, but under the table is a dark place, mebbee consider other colors? The blue over yellow is one I've used a few times. Looking forward to seeing the finished project.
Looking more closely at the underside I couldn't see how I could get a clean scored edge for the milk paint just under the front lip of the top.
I did two small tests: a small area of shellac on the underside of the sapwood looks kind of blotchy. Iron Acetate (vinegar and steel wool) gave a nice dark patina to the heartwood and looked ok on a small area of sapwood somewhat accentuating the texture.
I'll could try a base of shellac on the top and bottom, then if I need to I can try to tone it to bring the elements together. But the iron acetate I think would be pretty dramatic. I think it would work good with a topcoat of light danish oil, and or, perhaps a light application of wipe on poly for added protection. The only problem is my wife doesn't like the black.
Just from the feel of the clamped up assembly I suspect the mass of the base and with the legs having most of their mass down low will have a lower tipping point than another narrow hall table I have. Plus, the mesquite weighs much more than the oak. However, I would not try sitting on the far ends of the table!
Without something to experiment on I feel kind of stuck, I guess I just need to pick a path and go.
I would use a wash coat of shellac (thinned) over all of it first to eliminate the blotching.
I went with ebonized top (tea wash coat, iron acetate blackening, followed by minwax ebony stain) with a final coat of Polyx oil, clear satin. The mesquite base is coated with Old Masters tung oil.
Without having cutoffs to experiment with I didn't trust myself to be able to tone the top from it's oak yellow to work with the reddish mesquite base, plus there was some black staining in the wood that the finish would cover up.
Pretty dramatic but I think it works, the construction came out very sold, better than I expected.
Thank you kindly for your comments!
I think the rectangular base really enhances the curvilinear legs and organic shaped top. I think the piece has a great aesthetic, well done!