I am making some raised panel doors with a brand new Freud UC 900 -211 door kit.
I made each component (cope,stick & raised panel) first to make sure everything was set up correctly. When I assembled my trial door I noticed the field on the raised panel was higher than the panel frame by 1/8″. The set is made for 3/4 stock. The stiles and rails I made 7/8″ the panel is 3/4″.
Most raised panel doors I have seen (and made) sit level with the stiles and rails. If I set my shaper to cut the grooves for the cove and sticking below the center I will have the thumbnail detail more pronounced than I want. This set does not come with a backcutter like other sets that I have seen.
Is it “normal” to have a raised field higher than the frame? Should I buy a panel cutter from Freud for 5/8 material to get the look I want?
I am new to using a heavy duty shaper so maybe I am being really dumb about this and am missing something simple.
Replies
I believe that the making of a Raised panel door is just as you described....the panel is indeed raised. Having said that, it comes down to personal taste and practicality issues. I personally like the panels and frames to be on the same plane not only for asthetics but also for final sanding through my drum sander. If they were at different heights the panel profile would be sanded of before reaching the frames. Having said all of that, I use a backcutter and make a few test cuts to match up the heights. Hope this helps some.
I thought of using a backcutter, but it appears that they don't make a backcutter for this set. The distance from the bottom of the groove to the top of the rail or stile is 5/8". So now that I think of it thats my solution...getting the panel raiser for 5/8" stock.
They do not show you a side view of a finished panel or explain it in any of the Freud sites that I looked at. Maybe its their way of selling another cutter? Or maybe I should have bought the set for 5/8 material. Boy you think you have thought things through... the cost of learning I guess.
TJB ,
When they say made for 3/4" material , the stile and rails may be what they are referring to . Simply take your panels down to 5/8" or a tad under , I also do that .
good luck dusty
I did take the panel down to 5/8". When I did I got a 1/4 edge and no detail!
You just need to use a back cutter as a separate step. You can use a number of different cutters to cut the back of the panel. It doesn't have to be a special back cutting knife. Anything from a router to dadoes in a table saw can ease the back of the panel. Depending on the profile of the panel raising bit, you can use that.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Tj, I don't see a problem there.A raised panel is a raised panel-sometimes they are level, or below, other times they are above the frame .Personally I think they look better slightly raised. Certainly I have never seen any reference in a book as to what is kosher or not-let's see what comes out of the cyber waves.
TJB,
We offer three types of cutters to make panels:
3/4" Stock Cutters (like the one you purchased) which make the panel proud of the frame in the front and recessed in the back
5/8" Stock Cutters which make the panel flush in the front and recessed in the back
5/8" w/Backcutter which make the panel flush on the front and back (assuming the same stock thickness for frame and panel)
Unless you plan to run the doors through a wide belt/drum sander it's purely a matter of taste as to which is best. We only offer the bevel profile for 5/8" stock (or 5/8" with backcutter) in 1-1/4" bore as the UP201 (the required backcutters are either the UP230 for radius or UP231 for bevel profile). These can be bushed to 1" or 3/4" HTH
Freud America, Inc.
Charles:
Thanks for the clarification, the catalogs and web sites I looked into did not make that distinction. Is this an industry standard?
While I have a Freud representative to ask: does your company make a standard shaper cutter to use on a stub spindle to make a cope cut for a longer tenon. In Lonnie Birds Shaper book he shows what looks like a Freud cutter on a stub spindle making a cope cut. The cutter is mounted flush to the top of the spindle so the tenon can ride over the top of the spindle and extend past the spindle centerline. I was thinking of counter boring my cope cutter and having a special screw made so I could use it either way.
TJB,There's not really an industry standard way of doing raised panel doors although most are done one of the three ways I mentioned. In production shops the last method is generally used so the doors can be drum sanded on both sides.We don't offer stock cutters with a recess for the spindle nut but our Industrial Division may have them. Call Bill @ (800) 334-4107 ext. 1349.Charles M
Freud America, Inc.
Edited 10/13/2005 8:23 am ET by CharlesM
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled