Loved the videos, but had a couple of questions about the finish: Sand to 180 grit Antique Cherry analine dye in distilled water ??? After sanding the raised grain to 220, he used a Minwax oil-based stain, but didn’t specify the flavor. ??? He then used a 1 pound cut of Seal Coat shellac, but didn’t specify amber, blonde, garnet, etc. Optional polyurethane coat Wax & 0000 steel wool Please advise, as I’m still looking for my A&C finish recipe. Thanks, Chris
Discussion Forum
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialCategories
Discussion Forum
Digital Plans Library
Member exclusive! – Plans for everyone – from beginners to experts – right at your fingertips.
Highlights
-
Shape Your Skills
when you sign up for our emails
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. -
Shop Talk Live Podcast
-
Our favorite articles and videos
-
E-Learning Courses from Fine Woodworking
-
-
Replies
There are lots of peresonal choices to be made in finishing Mission or Arts and Crafts furniture, depending on the wood used and the look desired. First a few comments on what you have given. First, the dye. I prefer powdered water soluble dye in distilled water, to liquid concentrate in water (ie. TransFast over TransTint) Sanding after the dye should be VERY light--just to knock down raised grain. I'd use 320 grit only, not sanding TO 220. Personally, before sanding I'd apply a wash coat of 1 lb. cut dewaxed shellac (Seal Coat comes in only one color, blond, and comes from the can at 2 lb. cut.) Then I would sand the raised grain with less chance of sanding through and the fibers stiffened by the shellac. Then I'd use a pigment only stain, (actually a glaze since it's over the sealed wood), not a Minwax stain, most of which include dye, to give the dark pores in oak. The wash coat will preserve a bit more of the base color between the pores, but won't do so entirely since a single 1 lb. cut coat of shellac won't seal completely. Then for top coats, I'd either continue with a few coats of shellac--your choice of color, or use a wiping varnish. Polyurethane isn't necessary on firniture. You don't want a thick glossy finish on A & C furniture. Stickley use lacquer at some times. Remember Stickley was made in a factory.
Here are two schedules for mission finish, both by Jeff Jewitt. The first is more recent and is currently on Jeff's Homestead Finishing web pages.
http://www.homesteadfinishingproducts.com/pdf/mission_oak_rev11-2009.pdf
The second schedule was originally published by Jeff on the old Badger Pond forum, retained as an archive in the Wood Central forum pages.
http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/missionoak.shtml
I suggest reading both before deciding on your own schedule. Your sample boards should guide you.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled