Replies

1. 
   Jfrostjr | Jan 09, 2010 10:58am | #1

   One method is to use what I think is called a "ponce wheel". This item is rolled along the template lines and small pins mark the outline on the item below.

   I think I've heard that sometimes you can force a dark (or light) colored dust through the pin holes to make them more conspicuous.

2. 
   RalphBarker | Jan 09, 2010 11:26am | #2

   I've tried the ponce wheel
   I've tried the ponce wheel and carbon paper methods with mixed success. The problem (for me) has always been accurately following the lines of the original drawing. Lately, I've had better success with attaching the drawing to an intermediate template material (e.g. Masonite) with spray adhesive, cutting that out on a scroll saw, and then carefully sanding/filing to the lines.

3. 
   flairwoodworks | Jan 09, 2010 01:00pm | #3

   I have used a POUNCE wheel before and it works alright. The trouble I had with it is that it is hard to see the marks in anything less than the perfect light conditions. And if your template is especially curvy, you end up playing connect-the-dots. It's called a pounce wheel because after the pattern has been perferated (with the pounce wheel), it can be reused with a pounce bag which is chalk powder wrapped in a cloth.

   I've not tried carbon paper. I would just double-stick tape it to the template material. As you are using the paper template to make a wooden template, you will not need to reuse the paper template after. Depending on the design, I will either secure the paper template with a few strips of tape, or cover the entire template. I like tape over spray adhesive because it can usually be rolled off afterwards. I use a double-sided tape called transfer tape, by the way.

4. 
   RMillard | Jan 09, 2010 04:06pm | #4

   Lostcreek,

   I just lay the pattern over the wood and poke holes in the paper with an awl at intervals along the line. The more curved the line, the closer the holes.

   The prick marks in the wood can be connected free hand, various French Curves or a flexible rule.

   Rob Millard

   http://www.americanfederalperiod.com

5. 
   Jimma | Jan 09, 2010 05:28pm | #5

   This used to be a vexing problem for me as I often design on paper and go through several revisions before getting it "right", plus I also on occasion work from other's drawings and transfer to the work pieces. What has worked best for me is a product from an art supply store called transfer paper which is similar to old fashioned carbon paper, only a bit more substantial. You put it under your original paper design and simply trace through it with a hard pencil or ballpoint pen directly onto the work piece or template. It comes in large sheets, but probably not more than about 16 X 20. Another, related suggestion is to buy a roll of paper to use for design work -- also from an art supply store. It can be in large rolls making it easy to use at full size and can let you combine several smaller designs onto one piece. Good luck!

1. 
   bill5335 | Jan 09, 2010 06:40pm | #6

   My method is to place the pattern on a window. Then I trace the line on the back side of the paper. Next I place double stick tape on the back along the lines I just traced. Then I lay the pattern onto a piece of thin material ( I use an old wall calendar, the kind that shows all 12 months). Them I cut the pattern and material with a scissors.

   Other methods I’ve seen use a temporary spray adhesive.

1. 
   DonStephan | Jan 09, 2010 08:01pm | #7

   I've read before that the
   I've read before that the toner used in photocopies is heat sensitive. Make a photocopy, place it toner side down on plywood or whatever and make a few passes with a hot iron to transfer the toner to the underlying surface. Not sure if that would help you or not.

   Like Bill and others I adhere with spray adhesive on chipboard (cardboard sheets from art supply stores). I cut through with 35mm chisel as taught by Paul Schurch if I need a template.