Buddy of mine (without internet access) just got a Unisaw with about half of a Paralock Fence. It’s missing the guide wheels at the corners of the table and the cable. He’s milling new wheels and has gotten some cable. He hasn’t figured out how to attach stops to the cable and was wondering if anyone with a Paralock fence could take some digital photos of the cable locking mechanisms and email them to me. He can machine/mill most anything, but he just need some reference photos. One more thing…I know that paralock if OOB, but are there any sources for parts? Thanks in advance.
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Replies
Try posting over on this forum. Somebody on this thread at least HAD a paralock and a digital cam. Maybe you can reach him thru that forum.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?threadid=3503
I love the smell of sawdust in the morning.
I think I can help you there, which stops are you refering to?
Steve
The cable stops, if that's what they are called. What is on the end of the cable? Are there set screws into some kind of block? Are the cables terminated in the same way motorcycle cables are terminated? If you have a digital camera and could take some pics of the under side of the installed fence, that'd be a hugh help. Thanks
Hope these help, I can reshoot if you need further clarity. The terminator sits in a notch in the fence (photo 2).
Hope JOHNULMER2 <!----> can find the manual, that would certainly be the most informative. Sad to hear they have gone out of business, the Paralok is/was a great fence.
Steve
I assume you have seen the photos are very blurry. It would also help to include at least one overview shot.
Thanks for the photos. They're a big help.
Only one end of the cable needs to have a swaged or crimped stop sleeve. The other end needs to be cleanly cut so it can pass through the holes in the blocks nad it needs to have sufficient extra length so it can be grabbed with pliers to pull up to the aproximate tension needed. Don't know how to specify tension. The cables are secured in the blocks by set screws. It works well and does allow subsequent re-adjustment of tension.
Another note on cable length and tension. Before the initial tensioning/tightening of the cable be sure the adjutable sheeves are in the slack position because they are where the final tension is set and they are also where the fence/blade alignment is made.
Hmmm, looks like I have the version 1 fence since the manual posted here is for version 2 and the handle is different. More importantly ver. 2 does not have the costly adjustable end sheeves I reffered to. Not sure how to fine tune alignment with version 2.
I have a paralock and will shoot some pictures tonight for you. I may even have the install guide/manual that I could scan and send you.
Company is out of buisness, I located and called the former owner several years ago (in Portland, OR). Too bad, great fence.
Funny story, I researched numerous fences and got literature from all the manufacturers I was considering. Paralock's packet came with a test report from an independent laboratory that had tested it's accuracy. The report turned out to be from the company I worked for and was signed by a close colleague of mine. I trusted his report and ended up buying one.
JohnU
Thanks tons JohnU
Here is the manual I scanned.
This was the smallest I could make the files without sacrificing quality to the point of unreadablitiy. Hope it helps. Let me know if you can't read any of it. The BOM-DWG file shows how it all goes together and lists all parts.
JohnU
Edited 1/7/2005 2:50 am ET by JOHNULMER2
That Paralock fence looks alot like the current Shop Fox Original heavy duty fence (not the Classic Biese copy). Anyone know how similar it is to the SF? The Paralock also looks alot like the fence in Jerry Cole uses is his video, "The Basics" (from In-line Industries).
Paralok 2 fence
I have had one for about 9 years on my Grizzly contractor saw. Can not find manual, would like to switch it over to my new Saw Stop contractors saw. Do you still have your manual available, or know where I can get one?
George Bower
[email protected]
I tried to attach some photos. I'm not sure they will be any better. The cable is in on loop and clamped together on the front clamp. The cable goes thru the clamp on the outside then around a pulley on the left of the fence, back parallel but inside the clamp, around one (inside) of the corner pulleys, crosses over and goes around the outside pulley on the back rail, thru the clamp on the back rail, around a pulley on the left of the fence, again back parallel , inside the clamp, around the inside corner pulley, crosses over and goes around the outside pulley on the front rail and then terminates at the front clamp. The cable in pinned to the fence clamping mechanism both front and back with a set screw. You adjust the fence square to the blade the tighten the set screws. The mechanism is the same as the drafting machines from the 70's or so. The clamps are just small blocks of steel that can be removed and the fence taken off and put back on without losing and adjustments. I may be able to find the instructions but its probably a long shot. Let me know if you need better photos.
John
Thanks much for the photos.
I added photos of the clamp block and the underside of the clamp mechanism. The front block has 2 horizontal holes, 1 end of the cable has a clamp on it to keep it from sliding thru and the other end is held with a set screw. The U part of the block fits over the bar that points toward the table. The back clamp block has only 1 hole and the cable runs thru it and is held in place by a set screw. The bolt on the outside of the clamp is a pivot and the nut visible on the bar leads to the handle, when the handle is pushed down it lifts the rod up and pushes the block against the rail. The nut is adjusted up or down for clamping pressure.
Hope this helps.
John
If you think my pictures are fuzzy you should have seen me after crawling around under my saw! LOL!
I dug into the archives and found the original installation booklet for the fence, if you care to message me with an email address I will scan the booklet for you.
I have just returned to woodworking after being away from the hobby for over 10 years, digging through all the old manuals and plans I have was a trip down memory lane!
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