Replies

1. 
   adastra | Jan 21, 2006 02:42am | #1

   How about a pic of the part or the saw?

   Reliant is a Taiwanese clone label for some woodworking chain that is out of business I believe. I own a Reliant dust collector and it looks a lot like many others.

   With a pic someone might be able to eyeball a similar model that might have a part for you.

   Good luck.

1. 
   oldflyboy | Jan 23, 2006 07:24pm | #5

   Thanks! Heard from a perardua recently?

2. 
   tinkerer2 | Jan 26, 2006 08:23am | #8

        Trendline, Come back, come back.  We need you.

2. 
   JohnWW | Jan 21, 2006 02:59am | #2

   You'll probably find that Grizzly has sold the identical saw.  Grizzly's web site has parts sheets for all of their machines, including models that they no longer sell.  Chances are very good that you will find your machine there.

   John W.

1. 
   mike4244 | Jan 21, 2006 03:57am | #3

   It may be possible that the Grizzly bracket will work, but the saws are not similar. I used to work for Woodworkers Warehouse after I retired, we sold the Reliant saws.

   I own a grizzly 1073  16" saw, weighs in excess of 400lbs, well built. The reliant 16" saw is okay, but not in the same class.

   mike

3. 
   mike4244 | Jan 21, 2006 04:46am | #4

   You need an exact size and description for the bracket. If you have the manual send the exploded view to grizzly or some other manufacturer, write the exact dimensions of the guide post on the manual view.

   Now if you want to get back to work tomorrow, make your own out of hardwood. You need to cut a U shape to go around the guide post, a flat piece in back that is bolted on. Figure where the blade will be centered, cut a 1/2" wide slot for the blade, bore holes in each end for hardwood dowels, these are your cool blocks. Hold the cool blocks in place with a predrilled screw thru the front. For the bal bearing thrust guide use a machine bolt  that will pass thru two mounted blocks on each side and on top of the wood bracket. Make sure the bolt can turn in the blocks.

   My grandfather did this on a 36" bandsaw years ago. Worked very well. He eventually changed from a bolt to drill rod, lasts much longer, he never had to change this homemade bearing, just slid it left or right to get a new wear surface. Hardwood cool blocks also work well, make them a couple of inches or more longer than you need. Butt them right against the blade, as they wear, slide them in. I use hardwood cool blocks when using 3/16" blades, cool blocks get too close to the teeth.

   Before boring holes make sure that there is room for adjacent holes ,you have two holes to clamp the bracet with thru bolts to the post, two for cool blocks dowels, two screws or bolts in the top piece for thrust bearing adjustment.

   mike

   
1. 
   oldflyboy | Jan 28, 2006 07:11pm | #9

   Thanks to all of you for your help.I ended up ordering a Carter replacement

4. 
   RickL | Jan 23, 2006 07:44pm | #6

   It's extremely unlikely to match it without bring it somewhere in person. There are no measured drawings to cross reference it from. I used to work in a service department repairing WW tools and machines. People thought I was supposed to have a reference guide on which parts would interchange with other brands. Unless I had each piece in my hand there was no way to tell and you can't call up someone and say give me the specs on so and so. It don't work and I wouldn't trust it unless I saw ut myself. It's extremely difficult to exchange part size info on the phone.

   What exactly happened to the other bracket. If it's broken it could be copied or repaired. I've had roofing guns that broke in half on the handle and had them TIG welded good as new. Often weld can build up a worn piece and it can be remachined.

5. 
   QCInspector | Jan 25, 2006 12:49pm | #7

   Carter makes aftermarket blade guides for band saws, and maybe one of their conversion/adapter brackets will work for you.

   http://carterproducts.com/