Replies

1. 
   rob.kelly | Dec 01, 2001 12:08am | #1

   *
   When I've done this, I treat the glass as if it were a panel and insert it into the door as I glue up the door. The glass is irreplaceable, so if it ever gets broken, removable moulding won't help. Also it looks better without numerous pieces of moulding for glass stop, and it's quicker as well.

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   Tom_West | Dec 01, 2001 04:34am | #2

   *Contrary opinion: If the glass is irreplaceablee, I would want to install it in the door as late as possible, not build it in.The routing solution makes sense intuitively, but I find little to defend it, other than appearance on that good side of the door. Might be easier to apply the retainer, however.

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   Jack_Woody | Dec 01, 2001 07:34pm | #3

   *Isn't it disappointing that CMT doesn't have more of a selection of profiles in their sash, and rail and stile bits. Eagle America has the largest selection that I know of. I've had good results with their bits.I would try for a stop incorporated into the door on the "face" side and applied mldg. as the retainer. It appears to be a more "skilled craftsman" product/end result rather than applied stops on both sides sandwiching the glass. The incorporated stop will match grain 'cause it's from the same piece of wood.With the necessary jig/guide/pattern, you can use any router bit or combination of bits to achieve the desired profile that is best suited to the style of the door.By you stating the door is 1 3/8" thick it sounds like an interior door. If this were an exterior door subject to the weather I would be adamant about not using an applied stop on the outside because moisture gets into the wood first where fasteners (nails) are used starting the damage caused by water.Jack.

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   Sgian_Dubh | Dec 02, 2001 09:46am | #4

   *Dano, A bolection moulding might suit. If you're not familiar with the term, it's an applied moulding; check your copy of Joyce- I know you have one- and I'm fairly sure it's described. You might make a similar moulding for the inside.I'm surprised by your suggestion Rob. I'd never countenance permanently trapping glass of any sort so that replacement of the glass cannot easily be effected, unless extreme economy was an issue. Slainte, RJ.

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   rob.kelly | Dec 03, 2001 10:25pm | #5

   *Sgian, I like the look of integral panel stop. I figure that if the glass does get broken down the road, it can be repaired by routing out the panel stop on one side and making molding to match, and you end up with the same look you'ld get by using molding in the first place On entry doors I use integral panel stop on the inside, lay down a thin bead of clear silicone rubber, lay the glass panel in it and use molding to hold it in. I finish the door and the molding before applying the silicone rubber.

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   Sgian_Dubh | Dec 04, 2001 10:50am | #6

   *Rob, I see your point. A different approach, but probably not one I'd be altogether happy with, but which, on reflection, has its merits. Slainte, RJ.