Replies

1. 
   SgianDubh | Apr 13, 2002 08:13pm | #1

   A typical routine is to dye with- for example an aniline first- or use a pigment stain. Then apply a thin wash coat of polish, e.g., a super blonde dewaxed shellac, then fill the pores or grain. Complete the job by applying further coats of polish, which may not necessarily be shellac. As a side note, any type of film polish can be applied over shellac.

   The purpose of the thin coat of polish between the dying (or pigment stain)  and the grain filler is to create a barrier preventing the filler further tinting the already dyed or stained timber. On occasion I grain fill without prior dying or staining, and before polish application. When I use this tecnique on walnut for example I'm aiming to both fill the grain, and to somewhat modify the natural walnut colour. For your job, I'd suggest you work up some samples using two or three routines and decide which look you like best.

   Zinsser now offer a ready mixed dewaxed shellac designed in part with sealing purposes in mind called, I think, Seal Coat, which might be of interest to you. I've never used it so I can't offer any kind of testimony, but the next time I visit my polish supplier I intend to pick up a can of the stuff to play with.

   If you plan to use a water based aniline dye, don't forget to raise the grain of your top first by mopping over the surface with a cloth wetted with hot water, and then knock off the fuzz lightly with something like 180-220 grit paper.  Slainte, RJ.
1. 
   art | Apr 13, 2002 08:26pm | #2

   THANKS FOR THE INPUT. I THINK I'LL TAKE YOUR SUGGESTION AND DO A LITTLE EXPERIMENTING FIRST.. I PLAN TO USE PRE-CAT LACQUER FOR THE FINISH.

   THANKS, ART

1. 
   SgianDubh | Apr 13, 2002 08:42pm | #3

   Art, You can seal between the dye and the grain filler with pre-cat too. With open grained timbers (like red oak, walnut, ash, chestnut, mahogany, etc.) you might experience pinholing or bubbling in the polish caused by air trapped in the open pores. To reduce the chance of this happening, thin the polish about 25%+ with lacquer thinner, and apply a light wash coat- just enough to seal. The other way to reduce pinholing is to add retarder, but I'm not fond of this stuff because it can make the polish unacceptably 'imprint' soft for too long- taking even days to harden if a lot of retarder is needed. Slainte, RJ.

1. 
   art | Apr 14, 2002 03:54am | #4

   I've been using this stuff for several years and I find that the addition of a small ammount of retarder (approximatrey 5%) gives me good results. Thanks, Art