Replies

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Sep 03, 2004 04:08am | #1

   I have a number of furniture paste wax starting with the old Simonize.  I've used Trewax, Butchers, Minwax and currently have a can of Johnson Wax which will probably outlast me.  I have not been able to find one that is better than another.

   However, wax adds no protection to wood already finished.  Water and watervapor goes right through it and it turns gummy and grimy.  This is particularly a problem in a kitchen where cooking oils and water varpor hold sway.

   Best thing in a kitchen is a good polyurethane varnish.  Oil/varnishes are marginal in kitchens.  You might want to overcoat the oil/varnish with a couple of coats of varnish.  That will do more for long term appearence and durability than frequent waxing.

   Howie.........
2. 
   hammer1 | Sep 03, 2004 07:49am | #2

   There is a difference between the solvents used in various brands of wax. Different ones dry slower, show finger marks easier, buff harder, etc. Floor waxes are not furniture wax. You will be breathing solvents with any. I use Minwax around the shop for tool tops, it dries fast and buffs easy. Black Bison, Briwax and Kiwi are some of the top furniture waxes. Paste wax is often recommended by furniture manufacturers for maintenance. Keep your coats whisper thin. I like the Bison, comes in colors too.

1. 
   BArnold | Sep 03, 2004 01:31pm | #3

   "I use Minwax around the shop for tool tops, it dries fast and buffs easy."

   I tried using Minwax Furniture Wax for tool tops also, but had trouble getting a smoothe appearance.  I feel like I was putting on as light a coating as possible -- maybe not.  I use it for jigs, etc., and it seems OK.  For tool tops, I now use Johnson's -- it has a higher oil content and seems to offer better protection.

   Bill Arnold

   Food for Thought: The Ark was built by amateurs; the Titanic by professionals.

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Sep 03, 2004 06:54pm | #4

   I would avoid using Briwax on new finishes.  It's solvent is toluene which will react with finishes not completely cured.  Best to wait a year or so.  The original Briwax is intended and sold as a restoration wax.  The solvent works very well removing old wax and gunk.  It's excellent for restoration work.

   They now have a new Briwax 2000 which uses the standard petroleum solvents and should work fine on new finishes.Howie.........

3. 
   BG | Sep 03, 2004 08:51pm | #5

   Dan T,

   I've given up on waxes for the most part...there are about 6 down stairs ...briwax, Mylands Bees wax, Minwax, some english stuff, shoe polish, carnuba and Watco satin finish.  Last year a couple of experienced folks on here convinced me the very best was Black Bison Professional...after searching for some time I called the distributor and it's not made anymore...

   I use the Watco cause its easy to apply and made for oil applications.... its nice...nothing to write home about
1. 
   dmt | Sep 04, 2004 01:35am | #6

   Thanks to all.

1. 
   Alan | Sep 04, 2004 02:44am | #7

   Dan,

   If it's not too late, I brew my own.

   As others have mentioned, wax isn't the the best thing to use for protecting the wood from most of the usual villains.  If you're not concerned about protection, read on.

   Carnuba is the hardest wax I can find.  It makes a surprisingly tough layer that doesn't bloom from fright the instant it sees hot cups or wet tumblers.  Because it's so hard, it can be buffed to a very glossy finish.  But, it's sooo hard it's durn nearly impossible to use by itself.

   To soften up carnuba I blend it with beeswax and turpentine--and for some reason I've now forgotten, I have once or twice added paraffin to the other two waxes.  The turpentine keeps it thin enough to slather on, and the beeswax makes it possible to buff it out.

   I wish I had kept track of an exact formula, but dumb me.  I whipped up a bunch of the stuff many moons ago, and haven't yet needed any more.  But it's possible to mix things properly by trial and error, without ever having to toss any of it.  Obviously, experiment with a small batch first.

   I melt the carnuba in a double boiler (it helps to shred it first) and then add beeswax to it.  I think about 50/50 would be a good starting point.  Leaving it molten, I take a dab and smear it on some finished surface.  I let it harden up completely, and then try to buff it out.  If it's too hard I add more beeswax; if it's too soft I add more carnuba.  Easy

   Once I get the right mixture of wax, I do the same thing with turpentine.  I take the molten wax outside, or anyplace away from a heat source, to add the solvent.  Again, I experiment to get it so the cold wax is still soft enough to slather (I love that word).

   If you want to, I guess you can color it with dry pigments or artists' oil paints.  (I've never colored mine, so it really is a guess.)

   I apply it like any wax: the thinner coat, the better.  I buff it with cotton cloth (no apparent reason other than that's what all my rags seem to be) and for a really super-shine I buff it with an electric buffer--the kind made to buff automobile waxes.

   Next time I have to make up some more I'm definitely going to write down everything!

   Sorry to go on so long.

   Alan

   Edited 9/4/2004 4:54 pm ET by Alan

4. 
   twotowers | Sep 04, 2004 04:31am | #8

   The best is Butchers Wax Brand. Amber paste wax is for darker woods needing a bit of color for cover. Butchers Bowling Alley is the same canabra/terpentine wax without the color found in Amber Paste wax.

   Butchers is the best there is and it is not expensive, If in doubt, buy a can and try it - you will never be without again.

   I know because I worked with Charlie Butcher, Dan Merkel, John Stoddard and John Snow. Buy Butchers!

   Jim Knight