I want to protect my table saw top from rusting and reduce friction while sawing. From what I hear, paste wax is recommended. Is any one wax better than the others or is any old wax ok?
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Replies
Rody,
I've used nothing but Johnson's paste wax for any application requiring a wax overcoat, whether as a finish on wood or protection on machinery. It's a proprietary mixture of waxes, as are all other brands. On wood, the quality of the finish is a result of power buffing the dried wax surface which monentarily melts into a glass-like sheen. On machinery, the only thing you're after is a moisture barrier provided by the wax film.
On any surface, a wax film will achieve a certain thickness if you buff it out a little, and that's it. Try to apply more, and it will just come off on the applicator rag. The film that's left will stay put on its surface. So once you've buffed off the excess (just a few swipes of the cloth after a dull film has formed) none will adhere to wood worked on the machine.
I cannot imagine that anyone has done any studies to show any particular paste wax superior to another on machinery surfaces. All that matters is that you use SOME manufacturer's product vs using nothing. Slather some on and enjoy the relative peace of mind that you've slowed down moisture's inevitable attack on your tools.
Rich
Try Butchers bowling alley paste wax. Available in most
flooring stores in the West. Libron is good, smells nice, but
is expensive.. In any case, find a product with carnuba (harder)
and mineral spirit base to keep the rust away.
duster1
I have also been using Butcher's paste wax- alot. I use it to protect my cast iron (table saw, band saw, jointer, lathebed etc) and no rust in > 15 yrs on most of the above (the jointer is new). I also use it as a topcoat on most projects. It works great.
Jeff
I use Johnsons floor wax. It woks great. Its not expensive and the can will last for a long time.
Hey Rody: Be careful of waxes for your metal equipment tops, some contain silicone which can contaminate the wood. I use a product called "Slipit" from my favorite wood catalog.
Rody,
I'll cast a vote for Johnson's Paste Wax as well. Bottom line: It Works! I use it on all work surfaces as well as jigs, etc. I also use it as the final finish on furniture after the topcoats have cured properly.
Regards,
Bill Arnold - Custom Woodcrafting
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Food for Thought: The Ark was built by amateurs; the Titanic by professionals.
My can of johnson paste wax is 15 years old!! By this time next year I'll probably buy my next one. I use it on all my equip surfaces and have had no problems!!!
Edited 12/30/2004 12:00 am ET by onearm
My neighbor gave me a aerosol can of Bostick Top Cote. It is a rust inhibitor and provides a slippery feel. It seems to work very well, no rust on anything in 2 years, does not affect finishes, and is incredibly slippery. It is available at the Home Depot.
Some waxes buff out easier than others. Johnson's, Minwax and Butchers are all available at your hardware store and work well. When applying the wax, use very light coats. Don't have so much wax on the applicator that excess builds in the cracks around the throat plate and miter ways. Just put a whisper of it on. wait until it hazes and buff to a shine.
Machines that sit idle for any length of time should have the sawdust cleaned off. The sawdust will attract moisture and the wax will not keep rust from forming. Don't leave a hunk of 2x4 laying on the tables overnight or it may also cause rust. The only time a wax will bother your work is if it is still wet or has accumulated in the cracks. I would not use car or boat waxes, they can contain unwanted additives.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
I think any furniture wax will do the job. But as Hammer says, avoid automotive waxes. They are forumulated to go over painted metal surfaces and have a higher moisture content than furniture waxes -- which can actually promote rust on a bare metal surface, such as a TS.
Rody27,
I don't have much of a moisture problem (TG)..so I just rub the tops with balled up wax paper....
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