What is everybody favorite past wax? I’m trying to put a waxed finish on top of danish oil and am having a hard time with blotchyness.
Tim
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Replies
Johnson's Paste Wax. I've never used anything else.
Most any of the commercially available paste waxes will do the job equally well.
Apply and let it dry. Then buff it with a lambswool pad in an electric drill or power buffer. The pad melts the wax which then instantly hardens as the pad moves on. You can't accomplish this action by hand.
Excess wax will be held on the pad and the wood will retain only the thinnest film that will adhere, no more. At that point, the job is finished (until you need to "refresh" the film). Wax is a surprisingly durable finish. If nothing is done to abrade the surface, (for example just light dusting) it will last for years without problem. When it comes time to renew the surface, either wipe down with mineral spirits to remove any wax/accumulated grime and re-wax, or simply add new wax and power buff again.
Rich
Don't ever learn anything new. Rather than give you satisfaction that you know more than you did, it will only confirm you know less than you thought by opening horizons to things of which you had never dreamt and which you now must explore.
The problem you are having is probably not related to your wax. The danish oil must be completely cured before waxing or smearing will result. I wait at least 3-4 weeks.
I would recommend that you remove the wax you have applied by using mineral spirits and paper towels. Keep a clean face on the towel or all you do is just smear the wax around.
I have used Simonize, Trewax, Minwax, Butcher wax and am currently using Johnson Wax. I can tell no real difference between any of them.
Howie,
It's been about a month since the last coat of Danish oil. I tried Briwax but it blotched real bad so now I'm trying Johnsons it seems to be working better.I was thinking about using a buffer but I figured they waxed stuff a hundred years ago by hand I should be able to do it to.
Tim
Edited 4/2/2005 3:02 pm ET by Tim
Tim,I've never used Briwax. Others have reported problems due to some of the solvents in that product. You may be experiencing something related to that solvent issue.I thought Briwax had changed the formula to correct the problem, but there is a chance it is interacting with the Watco underneath.You can use hand rubbing as much as you like with a paste wax finish. The difference in results between hand rubbing a hard wax finish or polishing it with a power-driven lambswool pad is like night and day. I think you are confusing the mystique of "old world craftsmanship" with "old technology." I'm quite sure a furniture maker of a century ago, being given a power buffer to finish a wax surface, would never have wanted to go back to hand buffing again.But good luck, anyway, whatever you use. I was just trying to add a bit of information. That's what you get here - more than you asked - for free!RichEdited 4/2/2005 6:01 pm ET by Rich14
Edited 4/2/2005 6:02 pm ET by Rich14
Rich,
I hand rubbed the stew out of the Briwax but still got blotchs and when I used the buffer it melted and gummed up. Its probably a rpm issue on the buffer, I used to use it when I did body work.I finaly used Jonhsons it didnt finish as shiny, a good thing,and it was a little more consistent finish. the beauty of wax is it's so easy to reapply, soon as I figure out the best method.I might try watco's product.
Thanks Tim
Edited 4/3/2005 9:38 am ET by Tim
BriWax now has two formulations. The Original and Briwax 2000. The 2000 is formulated without the toluene that can mess up new finishes that are less than a year old. The 2000 uses a standard mineral spirits thinner.Howie.........
Howie,
I checked which Briwax I have and its the original version. I guess i'll take it off with some spirits and see if I can get a better job with the Johnsons.Thanks for the info.
Tim
Tim,
I've got the Johnson's, Briwax, Watco Satin, Car wax, and a couple of others. Last year I went on a quest for one that would work and finally, finally determined the very best was Black Bison Professional wax. Called them and it's not made anymore...and she would not give up her last can..sigh !! I don't know if the current Black Bison is as good but I suspect not.
What I have also learned(perhaps just my imagination) is that about 2-4 months after I apply a wax (except for the Briwax) the finish evolves and is much nicer than when I first applied the wax...regardless of what brand I used. The evolving appears to take a bit longer with an oil finish than a shellac, lacquer, or varnish finish. In all cases I wait several weeks before appling wax but that dosen't help much.
Hello Howie,
Your comment about the original Briwax causing trouble with finishes less than a year old caught my eye.
I bought some a few months back here in New Zealand but have not put it to use yet. Are you saying that due to the toluene content it is not a good idea to use it on top of pre-catylsed nitro-celluose lacquer which I have rubbed down with 0000 steel wool?
Hello again Howie,
Further to my post#22916.27 re Briwax: I have made a kist using Greenseal pine, and have finished it with pre-cat nitro and am thinking of waxing it with briwax after a rub down with steel wool- so your input may be crucial.
You don't know what greenseal pine is? click on this link; http://www.greenseal.co.nz. I am mighty impressed by the product.
I don't know specifically what the reaction of Original BriWax would be on pre-cal lacquer. My experiance is with standard, one part finish3s. Personally, I would use a wax with a non-toluene thinner. The toluene is used in the BriWax as an agressive solvent/cleaner. Original BriWax is intended for use in restoring old furniture finishes. The very agresssive toluene cuts through the layers of old gunk. As a restorer's wax, it is very good but I would not use it on any finish that was not fully cured.Howie.........
I have tried any number of paste waxes, and have also had problems with blotching.
But years ago, I stumbled across a Watco product, called Satin Wax, which I think they still sell to overcoat their danish oil products. It is a liquid wax, and I therefore assume it is less durable than a paste. But it is easy to apply, and gives the surface a nice glow -- without the blotchiness you are talking about.
I usually don't use wax, but when I do, this is the stuff I use.
Hey Tim,
I use Mother's California Gold. It's commonly used as an automotive finish, but it's nearly 100% carnuba, easy to use, and smells good.
Tom
Wher do you find this "Mother's" wax.
Dick
"Mother's" can be found at any autoparts store.
-Art K.
Look in her ears.Sorry couldn't resit.:-)MarkMeasure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
Edited 4/5/2005 12:09 pm ET by Mark
That is soooooooo bad that I wish I had thought of it!!!!!
Thanks for the info to the others who responded.
Dick Cummings
Hey Dick, Like Art said, at any auto parts store. But be sure to get Mother's Pure California Gold. It's the only product in the line that doesn't have any cleaners, abrasives, silicones, etc. It comes in a low, wide, metal tin, painted red. If you get the wrong stuff, you could be sorry.Tom
I've settled on LIberon's Black Bison.
Yes! Liberon's Black Bison!
-Jazzdogg-
Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.
Absolutely Liberons Black Bison! Despite the fact that it costs $23 a can here in South Africa. I use 0000 steel wool for application, wait 20 minutes, and buff it with a Makita polisher.
Hi Sean,
If you haven't already tried it, you'll love Liberon steel wool; it's oil-free, and very consistently sized for consistent abrasion. If you have, you already know what I'm talking about.
Liberon's finishing oil is my absolute favorite for sanded-in oil finishes.
Which hardwoods are most commonly used by furniture makers in South Africa?
Here, they seem to be oak, maple, mahogany, and cherry, with poplar as the most commonly used secondary hardwood.
Great hearing from you,
-Jazzdogg-
Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.
JD,
It is the Liberon steel wool that I'm using. The finishinging oil is not available here as yet.
Hardwoods are as you've mentioned, save for oak which has been overused and is no longer in fashion. Kiaat, sourced from the central regions of Africa is very popular right now and a pleasure to work. Beautiful and very colourful, I have done my personal study in this timber. Supply is unfortunately erratic as this has traditonaslly been corridored through Zimbabwe which is currently experiencing political dissarray.
Regards,
Hi Sean,
I refer to your comment on Kiaat-"supplies are erratic at the moment due to the situation in Zimbabwe". I think it might be of interest to refer folk to page 68 of FW #118 June1996, where some people are under the impression that Kiaat, aka Muninga,Mukwa,bloodwood and Pterocarpus angolensis is sustainably grown. This is a bare face joke, as the source of said timber is in Mozambique, and the supplier/miller/entrepreneur is a certain gentleman who was a superb soldier in the Rhodesian Army of old, and it takes upwards of 100 years for a Mukwa tree to reach a decent size. Of further interest is the fact that this timber is exported to U.S.A, which is the reason why I could no longer get it some years back, and probably why you can't get too much in S A either.The same comments apply to African Mahogany from Mozambique.
I hate to think of it being used to make window frames in the U.S.A, even though it is one of the most stable timbers in the world....
Hi Mookaroid,
That's very interesting to know and makes a lot of sense. My reference to Zimbabwe was because I was led to believe by my (American controlled!) local merchant that Zim was the clearing house for African timbers. I've travelled frequently in Mocambique since 1995 and the roadside merchants from Maputo to Inhambane sell a hard timber, almost orange in colour, which they refer to as kiaat. Could these be younger trees? Sad to say, much of my driving time in Mocambique has been spent behind huge logging trucks bearing massive logs, probably destined for export.
As to stability; in my experience Kiaat is rivalled only by Afrormosia. I'm very grateful to have been allowed to enjoy both.
Regards
Blotchiness is not from wax. It can occur on certain woods due to uneven oil penetration. To prevent this apply a wash coat of dewaxed shellac, or blo with a little thinner.
In my experience, waxes are a nice finish, but it makes little difference in brand.
Edited 4/11/2005 1:15 pm ET by JACKPLANE
Jackplane,
The oil finish looked real good untill I put the wax on.I've been thinking about taking it off but as mentioned eariler by BG it seems to be evening out for some reason .I rub on it a bit everytime I walk by , its hard to beat the feel of a waxed finish.
Tim
As both Jackplane and I have previously said, the smearing of the wax is due to the fact that the underlying finish is not fully cured. The off-gassing of the uncured finish softens the wax so that it can not be correctly buffed.Best to remove the existing wax with mineral spirits and then let the finish cure 2-4 weeks before applying any wax.Howie.........
If it is a surface that might attract a wet glass, you will get a white ring in the wax.Gretchen
Beeswax dissolved in turpentine, melt it in a double boiler, add enough turps to let it solidify into a soft paste.
Umm. Kind of edit: Let me stress this: USE A DOUBLE BOILER. DO NOT DO THIS OVER DIRECT HEAT. If you do, SWMBO and/or the landlord will be most disturbed. You'll be doing a kitchen refurb.
I used old baby food jars to do this with, melting the wax and turps in a water bath on the stove. I'd chunk the wax into about 1-cm cubes, fill the jar, set it in hot water and add turps so it was about a third full by eye. Stir until dissolved, put the lid on and you're done.
Applied with a tee-shirt material pad and polished until my arms were sore.
If you can find Webril Wipes, they work well also.
Adding carnauba wax to the mix will produce a harder surface finish.
Woodcraft has both. Beeswax may be obtainable from an organic food store, ours in Roanoke has it for about $4US/lb. as I recall.
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=750
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