I am making a sideboard that is 52 inches on the long dimension. I have a long stretcher that will be mortised into the two front legs. The stretcher is 52 inches by 3.5 inches by 0.75 inches. I want to pattern rout a gentle arch onto the stretcher. I am new to woodworking, and I haven’t done any pattern routing. I am unsure if this operation should be done on a router table, or freehand. I have seen some good jigs in Fine Woodworking that use plywood and clamps and the router table, but I would think that the size of my stretcher would be an issue w/that plan. I am thinking that maybe I should tack the plywood onto the piece and hand rout the pattern. How large is too large for the router table? I have a small lee valley steel top routing table that I love, but it is small. I have only used it with the fence mostly for dadoes and rebates.
Any advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Chuck
Replies
There are several ways to approach pattern routing. One method is to use bits that have a guide bearing, another is to use a guide bushing in the base of the hand-held router. With bearings, the template would be flush with the desired line of the finished piece, with a bushing, the template would be offset from the finished line. In either case, the curve should be "roughed in" on the bandsaw, keeping the cut line about 1/16" or so from the finished line. Obviously, the edge of the template needs to be perfectly smooth, since any rough spots will be telegraphed to the bearing or guide bushing.
I'd lean toward using the router hand held for larger pieces, since trying to manage that long of a piece on a small router table could be dangerous. I also use push blocks with rubber-like gripper material at the router table, so my hands are kept a good distance from the bit, even if the work piece slips.
many ways to skin this cat
Wow so many ways to make this happen. I like hardboard for patterns git it good and then use a pattern bit after cutting it close with either a bandsaw or jigsaw then finish it on the router table. You could also fix it to a table and hand do it. at that small a width, that would be more complicated but doable you could use double stick carpet tape to attach it to a wider board that would then be clamped to the worktable for stability and allow your router to extend over the edge of the piece. To me, I'd just use the router table. If you have good hold downs to control it then you could do after it's ripped down, but to be safe, I'd cut the arc leaving the piece wide as possible then rout it smooth to your pattern then rip it to width. I like wide pieces as practicle at the table. The key with a pattern bit is to get it close. If you try to hog off a lot at once it will cause you to have to push harder and thats when slips and bad things happen. If you cut close to the line it will just glide right through it.
BTW if you push it through a router table use hold downs to control it. you can either make them, or use comercial ones. Here is what I use. They are not cheap, but then safety is worth a lot to me. I have two of these and use them at all my tools to control wood cut thin strips and prevent injury from kickback or getting my hands too close to the business end of the tool.
I was going to include a link to it but the new wizbang forum software said I had triggered a spam filter and it would not accept my post. So go a google for MicroJig and look at the GRR-Ripper
Thank you for the sage advice. I used double sided tape to fit the template on top of my stretcher. I then used a bearing guided bit to rout the arch. I cut a decent arch on the bandsaw, close to my guide line, which made the routing seem easy. I mounted the workpiece between dogs on the front of my bench, double checked everything, and carefully moved the router though the cut. It came out smooth and lovely. Thanks for the again for the advice.
Chuck
Success!
I'm glad it worked out well for you, Chuck.
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