Hi,
In a project I am working I am making a lot of holes in a lot of 1/2″ boards. The holes are 1 3/8″. I have made a template in plywood with a forstner bit, then I cut holes that are 1/8 smaller in the board I am going to use, screw the template on the board and pattern routing the last 1/8 wood away, to get a nicer finish than I would from the forstner bit. However, I find it difficult to avoid catches and climb cuts, mostley when I start the cut. Is there a smarter/safer way to do this? I do not want to sand all of these holes as it would take a lot of time, so a nice finish from the tool is preferred.
Thank you for your advice
Replies
I’d use a Forstner bit then ream with a 1/16” round over bit.
Thank you, but that doesn't help me with getting clean walls in the hole. Sorry if I was unclear.
If you are set on going with the router use a compression bit like this:
https://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/products/udc9112?_pos=26&_sid=55a9b0f8a&_ss=r
The design is spiral-to-center so both the upper and lower surfaces are "in-sheared". Catches routing an interior circle are part of the game. The lighter your cut is the safer you are. Making your starting cut slowly and a little wider by shifting the router can help. A slow feed and selective climb cutting can also help, especially in solid wood.
Sounds sensible. Thank you, I'll look into the compression bits. Are there less catching with this type of bit? Never tried it
From my understanding, it's going to help prevent tearout on the top and bottom. Normally, you can only protect either with up/down bits.
Catching, I think, will come down to the combination of pass speed, depth, bit sharpness, bit speed, and material hardness.
A shiny new compression bit should solve the issue unless it's an operator error...
I could be wrong, but this is my understanding.
What bit are you using in the first place and how old is it?
I've used a CMT pattern router bit with changeable blades. Gives me very nice result useually.
Agree with mj.
You definitely want to use a compression bit for this.
No real need for any of the coatings. Just get a good-quality carbide.
Ultrashear - Woodpeckers is good, as well as the link to Whiteside, of course.
In case you do need or want to sand the holes after there are sanding drums you can use to make it ezpz. It looks like McMaster Carr has 1-1/4 rubber drums for your drill.
Once your paper is on, it'll be 1-3/8.
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/sanding-drums/quick-change-sanding-sleeve-drums-for-hand-held-power-tools/
Thank you for the answer
Speaking only of pattern routing... Are you freehand routing or using a router table? If you are freehand routing, how big is the base? Are you using a template guide and a straight bit or a flush bearing bit?
Router table with flush bearing bit
Try bracing the piece against the table with one hand while edging into the cut. Once the bearing in engaged are you ok? I've begrudgingly spent the extra for spiral cut bits. Upcut is a downcut in the table and it is pulling the piece against the table as it cuts, adding to the stability. Honestly I've never tried the double fluted types the others mentioned but they sound like a great solution.