Replies

1. 
   jvk | Jul 11, 2011 11:20pm | #1

   The only thing I can think of, considering that spot would possibly be an all thread running all the way thru the pedestal.  When you open it up, can you see any bolt/nuts... how about undr the bottom??

2. 
   user-64052 | Jul 12, 2011 01:00am | #2

   how loose are the dowels

   in the holes. glue itself will not take the slop out

   ron

1. 
   Trebbor | Jul 12, 2011 11:41am | #3

   There is a bit of looseness in the main 2" dowel.  Should this be absolutely tight? The smaller dowel I'm assuming is only for alignment and I can make this fit snugly since I've had to drill out the old one.  The two pieces of the pedestal do not necessarily fit perfectly.  It seems that an adhesive/filler was use when the pedestal was assembled.  I've had to chip the adhesive off.  Any suggestions as to what adhesive to use to reassemble the pedestal.  Thanks, Bob

1. 
   user-64052 | Jul 12, 2011 12:23pm | #4

   snug fit is usually the requirement

   to keeping something firm. glue works best when there is a firm commitment. in the previous sense, the so called adhesive/ filler didn't sustain itself did it, or we wouldn't be having this conversation. most adhesives will work providing a sense of workmanship has occured

   the hole is more than likely a little eggshape from the seasonal changes along with the dowel. so really what is required is a new dowel of the required dimension. the hole resized to it's original roundness so that everything fits right, providing someone hasn't enlarged the hole with the malicious use of a chisle digging out the old chunks of glue. I usually precisely check the sizing of my dowelling beforee use as there now seems to be a lot of variance in measure these days, esp with the influx from s.e. asia

   ron

   remember that you have a 36 or 42" table top being supported by one 1"(or whatever size) it is dowel, so a little slop there is magnfied at the table top

3. 
   user-64052 | Jul 12, 2011 02:11pm | #5

   your better off

   getting dowel to match the hole. you can buy 2" maple dowelling. I have all h/maple dowel in stk  up to 2" in 4' lenghts, so it is available. there may be a w/w shop around that may have some or will turn an accurate dowel for you

   ron

4. 
   hammer1 | Jul 12, 2011 08:13pm | #6

   A large round tenon, your 2"

   A large round tenon, your 2" dowel, is a common way to attach turnings to each other. The smaller dowel is to prevent the pedestal from rotating at that joint. You can use a gap filling glue rather than try to make new parts which may not fit or last any better. The large top on a small pedestal puts a lot of strain on that joint and others. I often mix very fine sawdust with epoxy for such repairs, if it's real sloppy, you can wrap the tenon with epoxy soaked paper. They make a special filler to use with epoxy but the sawdust has worked well for me. A thin bead of a polyurethane construction adhesive in a tube, like caulking, could be used where the flats come together. Give the epoxy and adhesive at least 24 hrs. to set before using the table.

   '

1. 
   user-64052 | Jul 12, 2011 09:05pm | #7

   furniture repair in

   a tube. aren't we skilled !!!.  just remember the next time someone has to repait it, throw it away.

   ron

1. 
   hammer1 | Jul 12, 2011 10:05pm | #8

   The point is, there won't be a need to repair it. We aren't talking a valuable antique here. It's a top heavy construction with people leaning on the table and the weak point on the column has shown itself, not that there may not be other issues in other places but that area shouldn't give any trouble again if fastened securely. Less secure fastening has already shown what it will do, fail. The adhesive will allow for some seasonal movement without breaking. A different approach may be prudent in other areas but I'd make that column solid. Of course, if you like fixing the same problem over and over, don't take my advice.

1. 
   user-64052 | Jul 12, 2011 10:31pm | #9

   I bet that

   epoxy is your answer for everything

2. 
   Trebbor | Jul 13, 2011 12:13pm | #10

   Thanks to everyone for their sage advice.  I am always amazed that people can be so helpful.  I love these forums.

   What I've done is the following:

   - I've drilled and inserted a 3/4 inch threaded rod through the whole works and attached it at each end with a fender washer and self locking nut.  I've created an appropriately sized hole at each end so that the bolts are flush with the wood pieces.

   - I've reglued the centre tenon and put in a new guide dowel.

   - I've put adhesive on the matching faces between the two sections

   - Then I've tightened everything and will let it set for a few days before using it.  Probably not necessary but I'm in no rush.

   Right now everything feels solid.  Hope it stays this way once the leverage of the table top is applied.

   Thanks again, all.  Bob