Replies

1. 
   BG | Jan 19, 2004 04:15am | #1

   Betula,

   If you had a plan...it would probably tell you to leave a 1.5" long, 1" thick tennon.  This provides for 3/4" thick, 4"x 14" support under the table that has a bevel on the end....and 3/4" tennon that sticks into the table top.  The support is screwed and the tennon is glued. 

   It's fairly strong....but definitely designed to support a candle... 
2. 
   joinerswork | Jan 19, 2004 08:23am | #2

   Betula,

   Best bet is to cut a tenon on the top end of your shaft, long enough to through tenon it to a 3/4-1"thick batten, 3-4" wideX 14 or 15" long. Make the tenon 3/4 or 1" wideX the dia of the shaft.  Wedge the ends of the tenon after gluing (run the mortise parallel to grain direction of the batten, so the wedges don't split the batten).  Attach the batten across the grain of the top with screws to prevent warping and allow for seasonal movement.  You can plug over screw heads, and/or taper the ends of the battens for better appearance.

   Regards,

   Ray

1. 
   Betula | Jan 20, 2004 05:14am | #3

   Thank you!, I'll try it.

   Betula.

1. 
   joinerswork | Jan 20, 2004 08:23pm | #4

   Betula,

    Another thing I should have mentioned, (perhaps you've already figured it out) is to align the long faces of the tenon with one of the legs, as viewed from above.  This will orient the grain of the top perpendicular to the direction that leg points to when the table is assembled, rather than in some random direction. This is more important when the top tips up, but it's a thing that shows that a bit of forethought was used in building the piece.

   Regards,

   Ray

1. 
   Betula | Jan 21, 2004 07:16am | #5

   Thank you Ray, I didn't think about that, its the kind of thing we often see when it's too late...

   Betula