Replies

1. 
   bleubassplyr | Nov 17, 2004 12:03am | #1

   I recently made a pencil post bed. The posts were the most challenging part. I used a book by Jeff Miller called Beds for instruction. It was a lot of help. You can see the bed I built at my web site http://www.LeBleuFurniture.com

   I tapered the posts using an electric hand planer followed by a hand planer then an orbital sander. I found the hand planer was tricky because of the changing grain direction. I experienced some minor tear-out. I sanded away any evidence of the tear-out. Next time I build pencil posts I'll make a jig for the table saw or band saw. I think if properly constructed, a jig will save considerable time. 

   There are more old drunkards than old doctors.  Ben Franklin

2. 
   jeffreysherow | Nov 17, 2004 12:13am | #2

   There is a new yankee workshop book with a pencil post bed and instructions for a jig to make the posts on a tablesaw.

3. 
   Crunk | Nov 17, 2004 12:40am | #3

   They are typically roughed out with a bandsaw or a rip bowsaw cutting slightly wide of layout lines and then cleaned up with a handplane.  This is so even in a power tool shop as it is difficult to manuever the bed posts across a jointer.

   I have done these with a rip bowsaw and besides the muscular effort the work was a piece of cake.

   Everything is about the layout.  If you've got the layout right then you've got it.

   I'm curious - what are your planned finished dimensions of each post?  I'd have to dig out my job file, but I don't believe I started with stock that large.

   
   

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   Edited 11/16/2004 5:06 pm ET by BossCrunk

4. 
   Possumpoint | Nov 17, 2004 06:24am | #4

   I built a pencil post bed for a wedding present to my #2 son and daughter-in-law. The bed also was set up for a canopy. I used octagon shapes both above and below the headboard and footboard. To create equal tapers on all four legs,  I used a compass to mark circles on the top and bottom of the posts and tapered to them. The tops were tapered from 2-1/2" sq. to 1-1/4" and the bottoms to 1-1/2".

   To cut the tapers I used a band saw for the first four cuts and then hand planes to smooth that out and to achieve the desired tapers for the octagon shape. As I remember it, there was very little sanding involved. When I set the tapers up I gave myself and extra inch above and below the headboard/footboard to ensure a square joint with no gaps. I tried a number of planes out on the job to see how they handled the  work and was surprised that my father's WWII #5 Stanley did the best. To start the tapers for the octagons I used a block plane to start the angles. The making the pencil post legs was the best part of the job. I drilled the tops of the legs with a 1/2" bit and used a lathe to make the finials. These pinned the canopy pieces in place.

   Hope that helps.

    

    

    

5. 
   Kell | Nov 17, 2004 04:14pm | #5

   whippet,

   The New Yankee Workshop jig mentioned in another post works well, I built a form of that bed about 9 years ago.  (And I also have a Shopsmith Mark V for the cutting; worked like a champ.)  The jig is simply a sled for carrying the blank through the saw at an angle that cuts either the taper on one of the four flats or the tapered facet (chamfer) between them.  The chamfer cut was toughest as I had to stop it just shy of where it ends, turn the saw off, back it out of the cut and finish the cut with either a band saw or hand saw.  The cuts then need to be cleaned up.  I used a scraper.

   Starting with a 4x4 post will be difficult in that most table saws probably won't cut to a 4 inch depth.  (My Mark C cuts about 3 1/4 inches IIRC.)  If you can shave those down to 3x3, it will be far easier.

   Good luck!

   Kell

   
   

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   Edited 11/17/2004 4:12 pm ET by Kell

6. 
   forestgirl | Nov 17, 2004 07:41pm | #6

   Sorry you don't have a bandsaw!  You can taper on a jointer, but I don't know if your stock might be too big for that to be done safely.  I've read about it, but not tried it.  Maybe someone experienced can describe the process.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
   Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   twotowers | Nov 18, 2004 05:04am | #9

   Forestgirl,
   I have read lots of your daily posting and found you have a good knowledge on just about every topic.
   I am curious, do you run a shop, or do this as a hobby, or, are you a CEO of Grisley?
   Jim

1. 
   forestgirl | Nov 18, 2004 10:08am | #10

   Hi Jim.  Tooooo funny.  There are any number of topics I don't have "good knowledge" on, I just talk alot when I do post (fast typing helps).  You won't see me posting very often at all under Finishing or Joinery.  I run a shop, but not a wood shop, it's a small (tiny) retail store that has nothing to do with WWing.  Building up my WWing shop at home has been an exceptionally slow, but fun, process.  I spend a fair amount of time here at Knots about 10 days out of every 14 -- my husband works out-of-state, so on his "home" weekends, I tend to disappear.

   I'm also a catalog junkie, but don't tell anyone......forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

7. 
   Crunk | Nov 17, 2004 10:03pm | #7

   You can also rough out your tapers with a drawknife, but this might be a bit difficult with the starting size of your stock. 

1. 
   Curtis | Nov 18, 2004 03:29am | #8

   Hello

   the crosscut sled used on the bandsaw can be modified to cut with a circular saw, just turn the jig upside down and follow the edge, turn and repeat until you have the basic shape. then you can use a draw knife, plane or jointer.

   also depending on your plans, you can make it in short pieces and glue them together to form the final product.

   Good luck on your project.

    C.A.G.