Replies

1. 
   notDusty | Apr 13, 2005 08:49am | #1

         kandrewk1,

                    Yes metal drawer slides can be used with inset drawer applications . A nice even reveal can be achieved on inset drawers , but it takes careful planning to get the tight even gaps that you desire .You have to compensate for the slide system that you will use. Some drop down a bit when fully closed and others do not .I have found about 3/32nds gap is just right for flush inset drawers and doors .When I have made them fit even tighter than that they have  formed an airlock if you will , that can prevent the doors from closing freely .

                           good luck          dusty

2. 
   RMillard | Apr 13, 2005 01:36pm | #2

   The way I go about getting an even fit around a door or drawer is to first, hand plane for a tight fit, which is greatly eased if everything is square and straight. Then in the case of drawers leave that fit top and bottom and plane for a hair gap showing at the ends. Cut the dovetails, dry fit the drawer sides and place the drawer in the opening, noting where it more needs to be removed. Plane the front a little at a time until you get the desired results. By planing the front after the sides have been fitted ( but not glued) it will make the sides very slightly wider than the front. You'll want to leave this step intact at the bottom edge, but plane the sides flush with the top of the front. That bottom step will raise the bottom edge of the front allowing for an even reveal all the way around. For very tall drawers you may need to take more off the top of the sides, to allow for expansion.

   For doors, after getting a tight fit, I plane a little off the top and bottom, and a take pass or two on the hinge side so the door fits in easily but not loosely. Hinge it and plane until you like the fit. Some times I have to squeeze the hinges in a vise, or put a thin piece of wood between the leaves and close the door gently to tweek the fit.

   Rob Millard

3. 
   joinerswork | Apr 13, 2005 04:02pm | #3

   kandrewk,

   You will likely get more than a few "right" ways to fit your drawers, all of which will work.  Here's how I do it:

   Cut the drawer front so it is just a slip fit end to end, and has the correct amount of gap at the top.   When you set the marking guage for the dovetails on the ends of the drawer front, set it so you cut the sockets for the side a little too deep, so the pins protrude above the sides.  When you trim the pins flush with the sides, the amount of overage determines the final amount of gap end to end.  I like around 1/32" on each end.  I have a shop made guage that is 1/32" more than 1/2", the standard thickness of my drawer stock.

   Incidentally, I like to make the length of the drawer back 1/16" less than the front, and use the same setting of the marking guage when laying out its pins.  This makes the drawer slightly tapered front to back, makes it fit the hole easier, and allows for a little bit of out-of-squareness in the case (not that that ever happens to me!), or future movement of the case sides.

   Regards,

   Ray

4. 
   BG | Apr 13, 2005 05:42pm | #4

   Kandrewk1,
   There was an article on fitting drawers in FWW late last year I think. The key point was all drawers need to be fitted...even when the case is not perfectly square you make the drawers to fit. Learning to make a drawer properly(in addition to everything else) means building in enough flexibility so you can make adjustments. You've got some experts here that are providing you advice. The only thing I can contribute is I'll cut my drawer face after glue up of the carcas, take the back off the carcas for installation....and attach runners (if needed) to the sides of the case and shim those to get the drawers sliding right, inother words, whatever works.