Replies

1. 
   Kent_F | May 10, 2005 04:32pm | #1

   Not sure why you really need this precision, but:

   Rout one slot, then build a sled with a runner that rides in the first slot. Mount the router on the sled ans make the 2nd slot.

    

1. 
   MarkRD | May 10, 2005 04:54pm | #2

   Thanks, I want to make a sled that rides in both slots for a horizontal mounted router (and for a box joint fixture).Mark

   Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.

1. 
   BG | May 10, 2005 05:49pm | #3

   Mark,
   I like Kent's idea...however, you should be able to get reasonably parrallel cuts on your table saw... 

2. 
   Kent_F | May 10, 2005 07:07pm | #5

   I figured it was something like that. Is the horizontal router going to be something like a boring machine?

   Personally, I have an Incra fence on my RT, and I find it convenient to do everything with fence-guided jigs and sleds. Never bothered to install the miter track that I bought.

    

   Edited 5/10/2005 1:45 pm ET by Kent

1. 
   MarkRD | May 10, 2005 07:41pm | #6

   Actually, I do a lot of sliding dovetails and I hate having to slide my stock vertically along the fence. Since I don't own an incra fence, tiny adjustments are a pain (I had a home made one but it broke). Rather than replace my home-made incra, I'm going to build the side mount unit, I'll incorporate a lead-screw (16 or 32 threads /inch) so I can make minor adjustments by turning a crank.I'll post pics when it's done.Mark

   Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.

1. 
   hammer1 | May 11, 2005 12:43am | #8

   Thought you might like to see my side mount table. It's just some scraps that were hanging around. I only use it occasionally, it's great for running a beaded edge, french dovetails or any other operation where standing on end is awkward. It's a portable bench top model that goes on a shelf when not needed. Depth adjustment is easy with the router fully exposed. The router mounted on the fence is adjustable up and down with slotted holes where the black handles are. I'm using a stock feeder in the picture, shot from the outfeed end. You have to feed with the fence on the left due to bit rotation. Dust collection is just a piece of shop vac wand with the end plugged and a hole cut in below the bit.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

   
2. 
   MarkRD | May 11, 2005 01:10am | #9

   Looks Great. I'm building the version in Patrick Spielman's book "Router Jigs and Techniques.Mark

   Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.

   View Image

   Edited 5/10/2005 6:13 pm ET by Mark

2. 
   kenshep | May 10, 2005 06:20pm | #4

   I have an edge guide for my router.  It should produce parallel slots and if you put in metal miter tracks after that they should be acceptably close to parallel.  I'll be doing something similar on my portable router table, but with two T Tracks with a gap in between for a miter gauge.  Very jig/featherboard friendly that way, and the miter rides on aluminum or aluminium if you prefer.

    

   Regards,

   Ken

   "Do as you would be done by." C.S. Lewis

3. 
   hammer1 | May 11, 2005 12:21am | #7

   I cut mine on the table saw with stack dado blades. If the table top is already mounted, you can clamp a fence to the top to run the router against. Have two fence pieces ready to go and use a parallel piece of plywood or something similar to use as a spacer between the fences. Cut one side, place the plywood against the first fence to set the second fence. You'll just have to do a little math to figure the distance from the router base to the bit and how far apart the grooves want to be. When running a router against a fence, I find it more accurate to replace the round base plate with a square one. A piece of melamine or even a varnished piece of plywood will work. Use the round base plate as a pattern to mark your screw holes and drill a hole for the bit.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

4. 
   WillGeorge | May 11, 2005 12:51pm | #10

   Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax..

    

   Sorry I just had to!

1. 
   hammer1 | May 11, 2005 04:05pm | #11

   Hey Will,
   Did you see how good he is with that axe? Looks like Mark can split the line or leave just a hair. That's good.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

1. 
   MarkRD | May 11, 2005 04:20pm | #12

   Sorry to dissapoint, that's not me with the ax :-)
   Of course,if the line is done with spray paint, I could probably split it with the ax...<chuckle>MarkMeasure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.

   Edited 5/11/2005 9:22 am ET by Mark

1. 
   Kent_F | May 11, 2005 05:57pm | #13

   Off topic, but related:

   I was at my lumber supplier picking up one more board to finish a Christmas project. Since I was driving my car rather than the wagon, I asked to have an 8-footer cut in half. The lady in the office says she can't use the saw, so I'll have to wait for the yard guys to get back from wherever. So I wait in the empty lumber barn. A cordless circ saw is just sitting there, and it's sorely tempting to make the cut myself and go, but it's their shop, their rules, and I want to be a welcome  customer. Mental note to self: keep a handsaw in the trunk.

   After a while, the guys return. One measures the board, does the math, and calls out "four feet and a quarter." Other guy says "ya mean four feet three inches?" "No, four feet and a quarter inch." Guy #2 makes a mark with a blunt pencil, then the first guy grabs an electric chainsaw and lops it off.

    

1. 
   WillGeorge | May 11, 2005 10:00pm | #14

   chainsaw!!!  DANG!

2. 
   Dave45 | May 13, 2005 04:39pm | #19

   Kent -

   A few weeks ago, I bought a 16' piece of molding from a Home Depot and used my cordless circular saw to cut it down in the parking lot.  Before I was done, three people were wanting to borrow my saw - or cut their stuff for them. - lol

3. 
   MarkRD | May 13, 2005 05:06pm | #20

   Sounds like a business...Mark

   Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.

   View Image

4. 
   WillGeorge | May 13, 2005 07:26pm | #22

   A few weeks ago, I bought a 16' piece of molding from a Home Depot and used my cordless circular saw to cut it down in the parking lot..

   I do that! I see that LONGGGGGGG stuff in the bins that is less expensive that the other.. can I say crap? in the other bins....

2. 
   hammer1 | May 12, 2005 01:48am | #15

   I was going to put you at the top of my favorite hacker list. The trick I use it to put the line on after I cut. Comes out perfect everytime.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

5. 
   hairball | May 13, 2005 02:00am | #16

       Don't know what your center to center dimension needs to be, but if you clamp a straightedge to the table with its center at the midpoint between the slots and rout from both sides of it, that would be pretty close to perfectly parallel. Assuming, of course, that the straightedge was parallel to begin with. If the width of the straightedge is such that you could joint one edge then run it through a thickness planer on edge, you should achieve a high degree of accuracy.

1. 
   Patto | May 13, 2005 06:49am | #17

   I like that.

   Piece of 2*4 extruded aluminium good enough do you think?

1. 
   hairball | May 13, 2005 12:18pm | #18

       I'd say that would do the trick. If you need any more accuracy than that, it's time to call the machine shop.

1. 
   WillGeorge | May 13, 2005 07:23pm | #21

   If you need any more accuracy than that, it's time to call the machine shop..

   Geee.. I worked in a machine shop once!  Are you sure you want to?