Hey,
What’s the best way to drill 2″ holes at a 45 degree angle.
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Replies
Brace and bit. Drill a vertical hole halfway through a thick block, then cut the bottom of the block at the 45 and clamp it where you need it. The meat still in the block will keep the lead screw engaged as the bit moves through to the workpiece and the pre-drill will keep you on the proper angle.
To go all the way through you will need a block on the back side for the lead screw to drag the bit the rest of the way.
If you pre-drill with maybe a 3/8" bit to remove waste in a pattern around the lead screw it will be lots easier. It is a serious workout, but it works.
Excellent tip.
Drill a 2 inch hole through a log. Resaw the log at 45 degrees. ??
Haaaaa....if the goal is the hole... YES!
Drill press and a jig to hold the work at 45deg may work.
I have done this by gluing blocks on to make the piece straight. 45 deg block on top and below the hole. Not sure it's the best way but it works.
Turner's forstner bit extension useful but you have to go very slow.
THIS ^^^
I'm with Rob_SS, leveling out the entry and exit with sacrificial backing blocks will keep the wood from splitting and lifting up as well as provide a 90 degree entry for the bit.
I don't know the "best" way. I have used bevel gauges set at 45 degrees placed in front and to the side of the direction I was facing and did my best to stay in line with those as I drilled. First the pilot hole and then the sized hole. This was close enough, because I was shaping the mouth of a wood hand plane.
Thanks All. I should've been more specific. I need 2" holes 2" deep into a 6x6 timber.
Mikaol
What kind of bit are you using? A hole saw bit would not even go half way into 6x6 timber but might help for getting a 90 degree hole started if you have a method for wasting out the center part (maybe with a router). I agree that a jig and drill press should be used for such deep holes. Let us know what works.
The block mentioned previously is what I would do however an auger or forstner will hit on the high side probably before the center even touches and will likely be passed the edge of the jig before the cutter engages the low edge. You could end up with a cobbie or eccentric hole. I would use a very deep 2" hole saw like Milwaukee makes for plumbers ,use a long center bit so that the center hits before the edge. Drill press is best but the jig you make will need to be fastened tight and you'll want to use at least a very slow speed drill. Don't break your wrist! Your hole will end up with a 45 degree bottom (longer on one edge than the other) and you'll need to follow through the center hole with smaller bits and a chisel to clean out the waist.
Thanks. I'll be in touch.
Mikaol
“[Deleted]”
Hey,
Well, I took all the good info I got here & created a jig. It's a 4" long piece of soft, blonde 4x4. I drilled the necessary 2" hole at 90 degrees 1/2" shy of all the way through. Then I sliced that half inch off at a 45. The jig now rests flat against the target piece. A strap clamp holds the two together for drilling.
I tested it on a 2/4. It works great. Damn shame the target piece (Mayan walnut) isn't as soft as the pine. It would make the job so much easier.
Regardless, thanks for the great input. I incorporated bits of all ideas into a working jig.
Thanks all,
Mikaol
I'd recommend you use a drill press, it does miracles when it comes to drilling angle holes
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