Hello,
Just wondering if anyone out there could tell me the proper compound angle to set my miter saw to for picture frames that angle towards the front. Sorry for the poor discription but I don’t know the proper name for this frame.
Thanks in advance
Bill
Replies
It will depend on the angle the frame tilts forward.
If you google compound miter angles you will get several hits, and the first one had the answers you want.
The angle is still 45°, you just bevel at the desired degree. You have to practice with a scrap to know how to place the pieces on the saw. For example, if the angle is to the left of the blade and bevel tips to the left, you cut one piece with the outside edge, against the fence. To cut the opposing miter, you place the inside edge against the fence and swing the angle to the right. The bevel stays the same. This is with the stock laying flat to the left side of the saw.
There are other configurations possible, face up, face down, or the reverse of what I suggested. With a double bevel saw, you have more options. The big thing with picture frames is getting the length of the parallel sides exactly the same.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Edited 1/29/2005 9:16 am ET by Hammer
Thanks for the quick reply, we'll give it a try. Thanks again
25 degrees of slope or pitch angle (that's the angle from the wall) gives a nice look. The settings for a miter or radial saw are (for a 4 sided frame) miter=42.19, bevel=17.39. You'll have to flip the work for each cut in order to leave the settings alone. If your practice pieces don't mate well, just nudge one setting until they do.
Just FYI the same setup on a TS would be M=40, B=67.
You can find all this on-line or in most how to books.
Good luck, play safe
Joe
Thanks Joe I'll let you know how I make out.
As others have said, it matters what the projection angle is towards the front. If you can vary it then just decide what angle you like the look of or if it is fixed, like crown moulding, then measure what angle that is and try to find a site that gives the correct bevel and miter settings. You could always build a box to hold the frame at the correct angle [standing up] and then cut the corners at 45*. This is how a lot of people do crown moulding. Peter
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