Replies

1. 
   pbww101 | May 17, 2007 10:22pm | #1

   I'm in the process of making 5 frames for a customer. I usually just run a short length on the router on different profiles and let them choose the one they like. This custome just lets me decide on what I think looks good. I've done about 8 others for him. The inside edge  I usually just round over a bit. I usually just look at other profiles on websites and go from there.

   Hope this helps,

   Paul

2. 
   Lataxe | May 17, 2007 10:37pm | #2

   Bones,

   There are a couple of articles here on the FWW site (both of which are also on their DVD of past FWW articles):

   http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ProjectsAndDesign/ProjectsAndDesignPDF.aspx?id=26378

   http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesPDF.aspx?id=2300

   There's also this video they sell (I've not seen it):

   http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/store/pages/014032.asp

   Lataxe

1. 
   byhammerandhand | May 18, 2007 03:22pm | #5

   I took a seminar from Stuart Altschuler when he was on the woodworking show circuit. He's the one that did the FWW video Lataxe mentioned, http://www.amazon.com/MAKING-PICTURE-FRAMES-STUART-ALTSCHULER/dp/B000H6ECAQIt says there are profiles in there.I have found there are no absolute right and wrong profiles, just whatever you want.I have a number of framing supply catalogs and they always include a profile of the molding. It's pretty easy to go from there. OT: Be aware, though, that the picture framing industry is just about the most closed rank one that I've ever seen. Many suppliers will not sell to you unless you have a storefront and do $25K a year with them, and many frame shops think that you are going to steal all their business if they sell you something or answer a question. Truth is, with precut chops and CNC matting cutters, the trade is significantly dumbed down.

3. 
   BruceS | May 18, 2007 05:35am | #3

   My Wife was into needle-point and making Christmas,Wedding & Anniversary presents and I got "drafted" for the frames. I just bought  6" samples from the local framing gallery and used them as templates and guides and modified the profiles to my likes and available bits.  With a very few bits(core box, architectural molding, door edges,V-grove, multiform)  You can put together very respectable frame profiles.  Only limited by your imagination.

   Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S. 

    

   
   

   ---

   Edited 5/17/2007 10:38 pm ET by BruceS

1. 
   QCInspector | May 18, 2007 01:19pm | #4

   Dover published a book (hopefully still around) called:Victorian Wooden Molding and Frame Designs
   The 1910 Morell Catalog
   ISBN 0-486-26932-9
   $12.95 when it was published in 1991.

1. 
   [email protected] | May 18, 2007 11:00pm | #6

   There are several on ebay in the stores, selling for $12.95.

4. 
   alanplanesaw | May 19, 2007 02:47am | #7

   Bones,

   Having started custom framing in my dad's store when I was 12 years old (seriously) and then several years ago my wife getting into it in a big way, I have seen a few (hundred?  thousand?) different mouldings / moldings.

   When my wife got seriously into selling frames and prints, I made 8,000 to 9,000 frames a year for her.  We had specialized (read expensive) equipment designed specifically for the framing industry.  I could literally cut and join a frame in about 2 minutes.

   There is no "right" or "wrong" (unless it falls a part) size or shape or color or stain of moulding.  It can be whatever you want -- more specifically, whatever the customer likes.  Hey, in this case, that's you!

   My suggestion is start with something flat.  Maybe add a bead around the inside or outside or both.  Put a cove on the inside.

   Put a narrow frame within a frame. 

   Get a bunch of scrap and start playing.  Find a sample you like and figure out a way to come close to it.

   If you don't know it, many mouldings start either flat or somewhat profiled and then are run through a machine that applies a composition which after it is hardened is then finished with stains, paints, etc.  Very, veryx100 expensive machines.

   Whatever you do, enjoy!  Then, post some photos here.

   Alan - planesaw

    

1. 
   bones | May 19, 2007 06:09pm | #8

   Thanks for the suggestions and to all who posted replies here. I guess I'll just get started making something.  while I don't have a shaper, I have a good router table, and it is powered by portercable 7518.  I'll see what I can come up with. If I make something I deem decent, I'll post a pic, but that may be a while (long while).  Thanks again to all.  Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short phrases: If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.

1. 
   stantheman | May 19, 2007 10:37pm | #9

   bones

   Eagle-America some new sets of  router bits with common picture frame profiles available now.  I have a couple I haven't used yet, but they are decent price and make some interesting combinations.