Do you guys and gals think that wood glue is strong enough for holding picture frames together?
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Replies
For lap-joint frames, maybe; for standard 45‹ miters, NO (joining end grain is not very strong). they should have some other kind of physical reinforcement, either splines, metal L-braces on the corners or backs, etc., whatever turns you on, but something.
Why isn't yellow glue alone good enough? A picture frame doesnt really take abuse. I've never used any supports for the joints for my cabinet doors or picture frames and I haven't had any problems (yet?).
I build frames for all of my wife's artwork, she is an oil painter and represented at multiple galleries. Gluing only, will fail with time. I have even seen miters glued and nailed together fail. When you hang a piece of artwork the frame has to support all the weight especially for larger/heavier items and if that frame experiences climatic variations (i.e. changes in humidity and temperature) the movement of the wood can cause the joints to separate. Not only will frames experience expansion and contraction some also have a tendency to warp or twist so that the frame is no longer flat.
I have also worked with professional framers and every one of them uses more than glue in their joints. Some use splines, some put brads through both sides of the joint, others use underpinners, some use metal brackets screwed to the back, and some drive in corrugated metal strips across the joint.
Each of these methods are used for different sizes and so on but, the main thing is its better to make a joint that you know is strong enough for the stresses it will face. And, believe it or not, some picture frames are under significant stress. The most heavy duty frames I have ever seen were in a museum of fine art where I took a class from the curator who makes the frames and he wouldn't leave anything to chance, but then again he was framing pieces of art that are worth more than most of us make in five years.
Matt-
I make loads of picture frames, and I learned the hard way never to rely only on 45-degree miters. I have tried corrugated fasteners, brads, and splines. Corrugated fasteners are the strongest, I believe. However, you need to drive them in properly, otherwise they make a messy hole in the back of the frame.
The easiest method is to drive brads into the frame, one from each side on each corner. Tap them in with a punch, use a bit of wood filler, and you're all set.
Believe me, you'll sleep a lot easier knowing that your artwork is not going to come crashing down.
I do few mitered frames, I mostly use M&T or bridle joints. When I do miters I always reinforce them. Usually with splines in slots cut on the tablesaw.John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking
Life is tough. It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne
Believe me, I've tried (and failed mostly) at trying different methods of keeping a picture frame together. For the last few years, I was mitering the corners, gluing, then counter-sinking a #6 course screw in each corner, and plugging the hole. I haven't had any of those come apart yet, but now, I have gone to pocket screws on the corners, and I couldn't get them apart if I had to.
Len
Hi everyone.I use a straight fluted dowel or biscuit for the thinner frames.For the thicker frames I use deeply inserted splines( the type inserted after frame assembly and glue up) or mortise and tenon with loose tenons.I have thought of using pocket holes myself to speed things up.
A brad or nail and glue approach won't get it done for thick,wide hardwood stock... guaranteed.They will separate over the years with the seasonal expansion and contraction cycles.For thinner,narrrower and more stable softwoods,i.e. painted pine it would probably work.I recommend splines or biscuits if you have a biscuit joiner.Dowels are a bit of a pain if you don't have an accurate drill bit.Thanks Roland.
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