Replies

1. 
   Bill_Richardson | Aug 17, 2001 06:08pm | #1

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   Flexible band clamps, the cloth/nylon type would do little or no damage for your corners, there is enough room in there to insert blocks for tightness on the corners. If your're looking to save some bucks, and there is no nearby woodworker wharehouse or home depot, these clamps or tie down straps can be found in any hardware store and you can cut the blocks yourself. There are heavy duty frame vises out there that weigh about 25 - 30 lbs. I've used them and they do a good job, a small investment tho'. When using the band clamps, make sure your miters are accurate or you may get some twist, in any event I'd lay the frame on a sturdy surface, place a protective cover over the frame, add some plywood and weigh it down on each corner. When cutting your glass, cut a bit smaller to leave a 2 mm gap to allow for wood contraction and movement. Good luck.

1. 
   Mike_Maines | Aug 17, 2001 07:43pm | #2

   *Good advice Bill. I'd like to add that I prefer to cut miters on the table saw; chop saws aren't precise enough to get perfect miters on all 4 sides. Miter guages aren't precise enough either, in my experience, so I use a jig that attaches to the crosscut sled I made for my tablesaw. It has two faces at exactly 90* to each other, and mounts diagonally to the sled. In use, even if one cut isn't a perfect 45, the complimentary cut will make up a perfect 90.Mike

1. 
   Major_H._Patterson | Aug 19, 2001 01:45pm | #3

   *Doug: I have built a dedicated sled for the table saw.I use the 90 degree system that Mike has suggested,however I have turned mine around to cut from the inside of the frame to the outside for the miter. This puts any chipout on the bottom of the moulding stick.I also use both tablesaw grooves for my sled.I have found,for me at least,that a saw with ATB grind makes the smoothest cut for the miters.The fences are long enough to use length stops to assure opposing sides are exactly the same length. If the stock is carefully prepared, the function of the clamp is only to hold the parts until the glue sets.For frames 12"X14" and larger, I use the straps mentioned by friend Mike.For smaller frames I use rubber bands.Pick up an old inner tube for a truck tire from your neighborhood tire station.Cut straight across for the smaller bands.If these are not large enough, cut the tube into long strips.Wrap the strip around the frame and tuck the ends.I use a spline across the joint for reinforcement.A contrasting wood looks nice. Have a good day ¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬PAT¬¬¬¬¬¬¬

1. 
   gpwestmoreland | Aug 19, 2001 09:11pm | #4

   *Doug, The FWW Main Page features a one paragraph preview of the next issue (haven't recieved mine yet) which has an article on table saw picture frame jigs, mentioned by Mike and the Major. I have been using a fairly crude version of this set up which works OK, but I'm sure the issue mentioned will show a refined version. The most accurate saw I have for small frames is a hand powered miter saw, made by Nobex; slower than a powered saw, but very accurate with easy to use length stops. I seldom use reinforcements in picture frames, just butt joints and try to be meticulous when spreading glue. Biscuits have never worked well in miters for me. I think a more efficient reinforcement (as well as more decorative) is splines inserted in kerfs, cut after the frame is assembled. Another clamp you might consider is called a Merle Adjustable corner clamp. It's a steel band, running through 4 corner blocks, tightened with a threaded hand screw. Works good, except that the excess band is reeled up in a small round case (like a tape measure), which usually flops around awkwardly when in use. Hope this helps. GP

1. 
   Doug_Musick | Aug 20, 2001 10:44pm | #5

   *Thanks for the info. It sounds like the sled is the way to go and FWW will have an article when I get the next issue.

2. 
   Rickk_ | Aug 22, 2001 12:08am | #6

   *http://www.taunton.com/fw/features/misc_features/wvt004/wvt004.htmI amazed that folks don't do a little checking on the site. There's a mini movie available right on line. Why wait for the article.Definitely go with the sled.

3. 
   Dave_Spindle | Sep 24, 2001 05:18am | #7

   *Just got the new issue and built the "miter-sled".Easiest jig I've ever built, and deadly accurate.I love it!!!Dave

4. 
   Stephen_Shepherd | Sep 28, 2001 03:48pm | #8

   *I cut miters rough on the chop saw or band saw then use a miter shooting board or mules ear to true up the miters perfectly flat. Depending on the frame but I usually use spring clamps at the corners to pull the joints together.Stephen