Hi Folks
I just joined this discussion group and I hope someone can help me with something.
I had just made about 50 identical cuts and suddenly the next cut the saw kerf closed up and stopped all forward movement of the board. I shut off the saw, holding the wood firmly to the table as I did so, and had to pry the wood out. I have a brand spanking new jet cabinet table saw with the stock antikickback and splitter attached. I then cut another board no problem and the next cut did the same thing!!!
Thanks for any help you can give me
Brainfog
Replies
Reaction wood...
If you get far enough then jam a cheap screwdriver (all the way to the handle) in the kerf to hold it open as you finish the cut. Be very, very careful.
An even better *safer* alternative is to jam the screwdriver in and finish the cut with a handsaw.
Warning: This wood may continue to move and be useless in a project.
My first question is what happened to your splitter. That should have prevented the kerf from closing up.
What you probably ran into is reaction wood. Typically this is wood from a tree that grew with some abnormality. Like on a side hill or was leaning over. When this happens, there are internal stresses that get relieved when you cut with the grain.
A similar thing can happen if the wood was not properly dried. Oak is particularly prone to drying problems.
Not much you can do about it. However, when the blade is pinched like that, you are in some danger.
I keep little hardwood wedges to pound into the kerf when that starts happening. According to Murphy's Law, it always happens when the splitter is not on the TS, or, the kerf pinches tight against the splitter if it is in use. Pieces ripped out of the lumber that does that are usually set aside and cut up into smaller pieces which are always needed somewhere.
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)
PlaneWood
B',
As others have previously mentioned, you have reaction wood. The best thing to do, it to pre-cut the wood on a bandsaw (jig saw, hand saw, etc...), cutting just wide of your desired final width. Depending on how badly the wood is clamping shut, you may want to cut 1/2" or more than the true cut line. This will help to relieve some of the internal stresses. Make your finish cut on your table saw, and as with all ripping cuts, with the splitter in place. If the extra half inch closes around the splitter, it won't have the strength to stall the cut. Keep in mind that the average table saw blade kerf is 1/8", you'll want to factor that in to the final dimensions of the cut.
If you have any questions, please feel free to ask.
Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.
As PRO posted...
Reaction wood...
Reaction wood...
Reaction wood...
Why they have splitters and other safety stuff on a saw...
EDIT;;;
My first question is what happened to your splitter. That should have prevented the kerf from closing up.
Well... Sort of... But I have seen sticks that don't care about that splitter... Just does what it wants!
Not anymore but I have cut hundreds of BIG thick sticks that were perfect till I cut into them...
After awhile you just 'know' the sound.. I toss the stick into the scrap and use it later for something else...
Edited 9/14/2005 1:07 pm ET by WillGeorge
Thanks to everyone for your input on this. I really appreciate it. At least now I know it's not something I am doing wrong, just part of nature. As to the person who replied "What happened to your splitter?" As I wrote in the original post, it is on the machine, where it should be, and was also being pinched. I won't work without a splitter ever again. I had a bad kick back at a class I was taking (no splitter) last December (It still hurts)
Thanks again everyone
Brainfog
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