Replies

1. 
   bobhallsr | Nov 29, 2003 07:53am | #1

   I'd make them panel doors, raised or flat.  That way you will have no warping due to kitchem moisture or other conditions.  On the minus side, kitchen spills are harder to clean off the panel frames.

   BJ

   Gardening, cooking and woodworking in Southern Maryland
2. 
   Midnight | Nov 30, 2003 05:47am | #2

   I'd agree wth Bee Jay..  raised panel's the only way I can think of to beat the movement as the humidity changes. Try to get quarter sawn stock; it's less prone to cupping. Varnish finished with a good clear wax should help with the maintainence.

   just my tuppence worth..

   Mike Wallace

   Stay safe....Have fun

3. 
   JeffKurtz | Nov 30, 2003 08:04am | #3

   Dittos on what's been said thus far.  Will add that I'd use a true mortise and tenon construction (through or nearly through tenon) for the frame rather than the so-called stub tenons used with many router or shaper set-ups.  I've seen these used on many (most?) commercially manufactured cabinets, and it seems they all warp in time - those short tenons just don't provide enough strength and stability.

   Jeff

4. 
   Upraiser | Nov 30, 2003 05:03pm | #4

   Just for an option, you can get knotty pine plywood. I have seen it both in 3/4 and 1/4.  which allows a low cost slab door, or a panel style using the 1/4 material for the panel.

   Likely will need to get it from a plywood supplier, or lumber yard on order.

   Curt

5. 
   jonsherryl | Nov 30, 2003 07:24pm | #5

   Anderson, I'm concerned that all of the stability warnings you're getting here will scare you off. Actually, virtually all of the pines experience lower volumetric shrinkage than do most of the hardwoods used for cabinets. The problem is, typical pine lumber isn't kiln dried quite as carefully, since it's assumed it will be used in construction applications...i.e., in its original dimensions (just cut to length) and often for exterior trim purposes. As a result it contains some drying stresses that make it a little more vulnerable to cupping when used in interior applications where central heating can cause wide swings in humidity.

   What all this means is you want to avoid wide, single-board floating panels...or use pine plywood, if you want a wide panel look. Personally, I like the greater depth and contour of raised panels (which you can't get using plywood)...so, the compromise is to go with narrower panels. In other words, if you have a door width of 18" to "24", construct the door with a center stile, so that it's a two-panel door, where the floating panels are actually only 6" to 9" wide...Of course, if you really want it rustic and simple, you can go with a plank & batten design.

   I think your bigger concern is to make sure you are consistent in the species of pine you use. You don't want to mix white pine with one of the yellow pines, such as ponderosa or lodgepole. They stain differently...or even if you don't intend to stain the wood, they develop different long term patinas. Personally, I like the mellower figure of eastern white pine...but all of the pines (even the Southern Yellows) have a character of their own and can be attractive, so long as you're consistent in the one you use.

   Check the grade stamp. Most genuine pine lumber is stamped, identifying the species. Beware of designations like S-P-F or "white woods". These indicate mixed species, including not only various pines, but also spruce and fir. If you have some experience in wood identification, you can cull through it, but it takes a good eye.   

   
   

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   Edited 11/30/2003 11:31:43 AM ET by Jon Arno

1. 
   EAnderson | Nov 30, 2003 09:52pm | #6

   Thanks for all your input guys. I will use all the input I've recieved from you all and hopefully make my final decision in the next few days. You've all been a tremendous help!

   Thanks again!

   E. Anderson