Hi Metod
Wow, you really have put a lot of effort into prototypes. Two suggestions:
Firstly, consider a 25 degree bed (rather than a 20 degree bed). If this is to be a smoother, then you are unlikely to want less than a 50 degree angle of attack. Probably, you will be looking at a 60 degree cutting angle. The extra 5 degrees you save on the bevel will extend the planning life. And a 35 degree bevel is easier to hone freehand than a 40 degree bevel.
Secondly, why not make a real, working model. Either of wood or of iron – use a Stanley #4, as I did, to test it all out. This one is BU and has a 25 degree bed. It is a superb user.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Replies
Hi Metod, yes I can see what you are shooting for. I still think that the usual knob and handle a la Stanley takes a lot of beating, but I keep trying other "designs". Are you sure that there is sufficient room between your thumb and the mouth at the for shavings clearance?
I am tempted to make a plane that has a knob in front and the same at the rear-may look strange but still well grippable....May be appropriate for a block plane type or shoulder plane.
I see that Derek is advocating a bed angle of 25 degrees rather than 20- I think it better to stick to 20, the main reason being that these bevel ups become hard to push with greater angles, requiring more plane mass.
If the mill drill is what I think it is you will find it indispensable and not just for metal working.Be sure that they include the face mill cutter, which is a type of fly cutter in effect- very useful for surfacing wide areas.
When am I to inspect the engineers drawings for the blade positioning device?
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