Replies

1. 
   JohnWW | Mar 16, 2004 01:48am | #1

   Drum sanders are basically a finishing tool they aren't a substitute for a thickness planer which can remove wood at least ten times faster.

   John W.

2. 
   bobJackson | Mar 16, 2004 02:03am | #2

   As the previous person said it is mainly for "finish". However I feel that it has merit as a thickness sander. If you are working with wood that has "wild grain" you are safer to sand to thickness rather than maybe tearout on the planer. Granted it is slower,by far, but there are times that you do not want to take a chance. Personally, I many times will plane within close range and then sand to size. For example, my omni jig is set for.625 drawer box sides. The closer I come to that , the better my dovetails. Also I feel that it is a great timesaver when flattening panels, doors, face frames, table tops etc.  good luck   Bob

3. 
   TonyCz | Mar 16, 2004 08:40am | #3

   How deep would you like to dig into the wallet. I have the Delta 15" planer two speed and think it a very well made machine.

   I also have the delta 18x36 drum sander which is ok for small light jobs, but for heavy jobs, it just lacks the power being its only 110 volts. N/A in 220V.  It really needs more power.  

   Tony

4. 
   RickL | Mar 16, 2004 11:26am | #4

   Planer without a doubt. This question comes up often on many forums. These lunch box planers do a super kob with figured wood compared to the larger planers. Sanders are strictly for finishing and light passes measured in thousandths. My friends 42" SCMI widebelt only takes .015" in one pass and even less full width. Ideally a planer as big as your jointer is all that's needed. Good stock prep is what it's all about. It's best to face your boards and plane oversize then sticker the boards in a pile for a few weeks then remill. At least that's the preferred parctice for fine furniture we use. A 12" jointer and a 12" planer is really ideal. I've seen too many guys with 4 or 6" jointers and 20" planers and they can never figure out why their stock never stays flat. Too many folks are trying to flatten panels after glue up. Kind of locking the barn door after the horse got away. 35 years of woodworking, you're bound to learn something.

5. 
   GHR | Mar 16, 2004 04:58pm | #5

   It all depends on what you need to do.

   I buy rough sawn 8/4x12" lumber mostly H. Mahogany.

   I resaw to 4/4 and then I thickness sand to clean up.

   A properly used 16/32 Delta sander will remove .015" per pass from H. Mahogany at the maximum feed rate. It takes about 4 passes on the rough sawn face to clean up (I usually leave some of the heavy saw marks) and 2 passes on the resawn face.