Replies

1. 
   Disputantum | Nov 30, 2007 07:34am | #1

   This is what I have: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=39860
   and I'm very happy with it. Main disadvantage is weight; I built a roll-around stand for it. I chose it mainly for the large table.

   ne sutor ultra crepidam

1. 
   TWG | Nov 30, 2007 02:09pm | #2

   Dang, HF has some inexpensive stuff.

   I know a few who are happy with the Dewalt 735.   Get the optional tables.

   Edited 11/30/2007 6:11 am ET by TWG

2. 
   MikeHennessy | Nov 30, 2007 03:05pm | #3

   Just some food for thought. I'm probably in the minority, but . . .

   I use a DeWalt lunchbox (734?) planer. It has a locking head. I used the lock exactly one time. It's simply too much bother to lock the head on each pass. Instead, i control snipe by making sure the knives are sharp, keeping the bottom table free of sawdust (the DeWalt bottom table is sheet metal over the base & sometimes sawdust gets between the layers), taking a fine cut on the last pass or two, and feeding the stock by holding the end up a bit at both the beginning and end of the cut. (This works best when My Lovely Assistant is at hand to either "pitch" or "catch".)

   On this planer, I find snipe to be caused more by the board moving up into the blades after it passes the infeed roller than it is by the head moving down. I don't really have much of a snipe problem with the above methods.

   Point being, don't think a head lock will necessarily cure your snipe problem.

   Mike Hennessy
   Pittsburgh, PA

3. 
   Talma | Nov 30, 2007 05:51pm | #4

   I have the planer your talking about (the 580) and its a great planer, but won't solve your problem. The snipe is a little better when lockin. But I never use it. I always lift a little as the board comes out and this seems to have solved my snipe problem. I don't lift and I get snipe.

   I would save my peenies and get a 15" or bigger planner. Especially if you plan on using more rough cut wood. The larger planers are capible of taking off 1/16 in a pass or more. where the luch boxes 1/16 is the most I would do in soft wood.

4. 
   9619 | Nov 30, 2007 06:20pm | #5

   Woodman,
   I'd recommend a Marcou, or possibly a Holtey.
   Mel

   Measure your output in smiles per board foot. 

1. 
   colebearanimals | Nov 30, 2007 08:04pm | #6

    

   Mel,

         Do either of those come with a spiral cutterhead?

                                       :>)      Paul

1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Nov 30, 2007 08:45pm | #8

   Paul,

   They both do, it's the one behind, pushing the plane! :-)

   Not meant in Mels general direction; it's the feeling one gets when they see that beautiful thin gosamer shaving.

   Regards,

   Bob @ Kidderville Acres

    

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

   Edited 11/30/2007 12:46 pm ET by KiddervilleAcres

1. 
   colebearanimals | Nov 30, 2007 11:40pm | #11

    

        Of course. Dummy me. I forget I used to have curly hair.

                                                Paul

5. 
   frenchy | Nov 30, 2007 08:15pm | #7

   Woodman880

     buy the Grizzly 15 inch or the 20 inch.. it will be working for you decades from now whereas the others will be junk inside a few years..

6. 
   Carya | Nov 30, 2007 08:52pm | #9

   I have the Ridgid 13" model and I get snipe also.  So far, I've lived with it, but I recently decided I want the ability to make small thickness adjustments after glueup where I might not have the extra two or four (back end) inches to waste.  There is a FWW article that describes a bed you can make out of engineered wood and lift a bit on either end to eliminate snipe.  Haven't tried it yet but its on my todo list.

   I think there were two articles but here is one of them.  Might be cheaper than buying a new model if you're otherwise happy with the one you've got.

   http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/Workshop/WorkshopPDF.aspx?id=25269

    

   Andy

    

1. 
   saschafer | Nov 30, 2007 08:57pm | #10

   "I have the Ridgid 13" model and I get snipe also."

   Use the adjustment screws on the outfeed table so that the table is angled ever so slightly above the plane of the bed. Works for me.

   -Steve

    

   Edited 11/30/2007 12:57 pm ET by saschafer

7. 
   Sancho | Dec 01, 2007 04:46am | #12

   If its snipe that is the problem and not the width of the boards your planing or the quality of the planers cut, there are few things you can do to reduce snipe. One is check the adj of the infeed/outfeed tables, another is to get a piece of melamine cut it to the exact width of your planer and brace it on both ends to stop the snipe. There are more. I think there is a article or video on this site about just that reducing snipe.

   here is a article
   http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/Workshop/WorkshopPDF.aspx?id=25269

   and
   http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/Workshop/WorkshopPDF.aspx?id=2416

   hope this helps

   
   

   ---

   Edited 11/30/2007 8:50 pm by Sancho