Replies

1. 
   hammer1 | Mar 30, 2005 06:32am | #1

   The planer will probably eat them, or they will jamb the planer. With most milling operations you are better to leave the stock long and cut to length afterwards. Your boards would be much easier to plane if they were 42" long and you cut them to 10" after. Even a 20" planer would have some trouble with 10" long pieces without a carriage unless you could feed them end to end to simulate a longer board. You'd have to watch your fingers on the first one, as the feed roller grabs it and snaps it down on the table.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
1. 
   budreaux | Mar 30, 2005 06:53am | #2

   Think I will beat it to fit then.  I planed them prior to the glue-up but had a small slip in the joint.  I can clean it up by hand easily.  I was just wondering about what cross grain would do to the planer.  Bought a DR Chipper today.  Maybe that will handle the cross grain screwups.

1. 
   hammer1 | Mar 30, 2005 07:57am | #3

   Ha, Ha! I'm going to need a DR later this spring. Right now the snow is still up to my waist. I taught some night classes in woodworking. One guy cut his rough lumber up into six inch pieces and wanted to plane them. We had a big old 24" Oliver planer. He would have needed a stick to fish them out, if there was anything left. From your post, I envisioned something similar. You shouldn't have to beat them too hard if you use thick enough paint.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

2. 
   joinerswork | Mar 30, 2005 03:36pm | #4

   tree,

   It is doable, but surface quality suffers, at least with my old Parks. Never done it with stock thinner than about 1/2", I'd be afraid it would lift off the table and blow up.Surface looks about like what you get with a single iron foreplane going crossgrain at the bench.  If you don't have a lot of wood to remove, it will probably be faster to just clean it up with hand planes.

   Regards,

   Ray

3. 
   KeithNewton | Mar 30, 2005 04:03pm | #5

   Since the shavings have the grain running parallel to the knives, the shavings will be very long splinters, in your case 10" long, which will jam most dust collection systems. You may need to remove the dust hood, and just let them fly out the back.

   Since you only gave two dimensions of a 3-D object, I am assuming that the 10" tall was meant to be 10" along the grain, or long.

   Some coarse grain woods and abrupt transition woods are likely to have some tear-out more than even textured woods, and any checks may fail under the pressure bars, and end-snipe may be hard to avoid. Good luck, Keith

1. 
   budreaux | Mar 31, 2005 12:09am | #6

   Roger that root.  The wood is 3/4 thick white oak.  I used a hand plane and scraper and got it cleaned up fairly quickly.  I was just curious as it had never entered my mind to plane that direction.  Just shows you to never take shortcuts, even on the little pieces.