Replies

1. 
   docotter | Aug 08, 2009 05:35am | #1

   I reach for my low angle block plane for this job.

2. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Aug 08, 2009 05:39am | #2

   Tom,

   As Doc said and/or a sanding block wrapped with Norton 3X sandpaper. 

   Regards,

   Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

3. 
   roc | Aug 08, 2009 09:18am | #3

   Hi Tom ,

   Here is a veritable treasure trove of info on the subject.

   http://forums.taunton.com/fw-knots/messages?msg=44964.1

   roc

   Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

   
   

   ---

   Edited 8/8/2009 2:20 am by roc

1. 
   philip | Aug 08, 2009 11:17am | #4

   "Here is a veritable treasure trove of info on the subject.http://forums.taunton.com/fw-knots/messages?msg=44964.1"
   YES THAT IS QUITE CORRECT. The op must ofcourse pay particular attention to message #11 (;).
   By the way, Rocky, the use of an electric soldering gun to demagnetise is quite effective-thanks a lot for the tip.Philip Marcou

4. 
   joinerswork | Aug 08, 2009 06:45pm | #5

   tom,

   A wider chisel will be safer as there is more blade to register onto the surface of the piece you are paring down to.  It's easier to keep a wide blade laying flat, plus you can cut with a slicing motion rather than simply pushing the edge thru the wood.

   If there are just two or three pins to trim, like for a narrow drawer, I usually reach for the chisel (always a chisel if the drawer is lipped), if its a wide case end, I usually grab a plane.

   Ray

5. 
   flairwoodworks | Aug 09, 2009 04:13am | #6

   Tom,

   Cut the pins and tails a hair short and trim the LONG GRAIN down to the END GRAIN, not the other way around. Either way, a sharp block plane does the trick. Work towards the middle to prevent blowout.

   Chris @ www.flairwoodworks.com
   and www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com)

    - Success is not the key to happiness.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

1. 
   philip | Aug 09, 2009 07:59am | #7

   Now dat iss not goot , Chris,
   because it is avoiding something which you should have no fear of doing anyway, plus, if taken literally, it means that you are not going to take a shaving or two off the pins (end grain)- which needs to happen a) to set some tolerance in drawer fitting and b) to remove glue which for sure will be sitting in the end grain.
   And if you have lots of drawers to do this will take up extra time and effort-and if if you have carcasses to clean up it will amount to ACRES of extra planing which could also interfere with the desired thickness of the case.
   Why the paranoia over planing end grain? Who knows, I don't.Maybe it is because folk like to use small planes like #9.1/2 block planes instead of something with some heft-like a #5.1/2, #4.1/2 or a low angle jack plane?
   Philip Marcou

1. 
   flairwoodworks | Aug 09, 2009 08:14am | #8

   It no worky, Philip? I'ze a done it botha ways. I hava no preference really and act-u-ally aim for everything to be even. Of course this never happens, so perhaps half the times the pins are low and the other half they are proud! But then sometimes they are right on. Sometimes. Me ain't much of a drawer-maker and I'ma just gettin' into dovetailin' agin. But when I do make drawers, I do like to go for that sweet, piston fit (y'know, the one where you feel the air rush out as you close the drawer).Why the paranoia over planing end grain? Perhaps it has something to do with sharpening. We both know how to sharpen a plane so it will shave end grain, even with a high-angle of attach. But that's not the case for everyone. About seven years ago, I sharpened my tools with a mill file. Seriously. Bear in mind that seven years ago, I wasn't into as fine of work as I am now. I was also 14.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodworks.com and http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com)

    - Success is not the key to happiness.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

2. 
   joinerswork | Aug 09, 2009 03:05pm | #9

   Hi Chris,

   Don't build too many lipped drawers, do ya?

   Ray

1. 
   flairwoodworks | Aug 09, 2009 07:31pm | #10

   Of course not Ray - the lip makes it too hard for the air to rush out. I like my insets.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodworks.com and http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com)

    - Success is not the key to happiness.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

6. 
   Samson | Aug 09, 2009 08:04pm | #11

   Like Ray, and others in this thread, I use a chisel. There really should not be much of a chance for a "slip." Perhaps you should tell us more about your chisel technique. For what it's worth, the back of the chisel should be registering on the drawer side. You then sort of swing the chisel in a arc to slice away a bit of the proud grain at a time - it doesn't take long. You may need to reposition the chisel when you get near the edge to prevent breakout - i.e., slice in from the edge rather than letting the end of your stroke be out in the air past the edge of the drawer or carcase.

7. 
   derekcohen | Aug 10, 2009 04:22pm | #12

   I tend to use a LA Jack, diagonally across the board, working from both outsides inward.

   Regards from Perth

   Derek