Just finished quite a veneering job this week-end, by resawing boards.
One face of the veneer needs to be planed after resaw, which I did with my hand planes, after the veneering was complete. I tried to do this on my 15″ planer, but get tear out in the figured parts of the Cherry wood.
Is there something I can do such as different angles on my planer blades?
LOL, I fed a 3/32 board of veneer with the grain going wrong direction into the planer, and it got totally consumed and ended up in my dust collector. Sounded like a hail storm.
Guess we live and learn.
Replies
I think for wood that thin, a thickness sander is the tool of choice...
Charlie
Yep,
Agree, but cant justify the investment.
To make guitar tops--also pretty thin--I've used a toothed blade on a low-angle jackplane with great success. The teeth keep you consistent. I can explain further if you're interested...CharlieI tell you, we are here to fart around, and don't let anybody tell you different. --K Vonnegut
Charlie,
Please explain further for my benefit. I'll be resawing shortly 2 inch strips that will be 3/32" of an inch.
Thanks
Jeff
Jeff,
What I did is plane one side of the board, prior to resawing, giving me cleaned-up side. Then I glued the veneer in a press and when dry, I hand plane the rough side to just over 1/16. It's a lot of hand planing work, but good physical work-out as well.
I hope to finish this week-end, but will experiment with a thickness jig on my 8" jointer with some of the veneer pieces, jointing down to 3/32 on the unglued veneer.
Don't know if anyone has tried this before, but it will be a board with a flat square lead running on the jointer outfeed table, recessed to accept the veneer, taped to the board and following the leader piece.
Thanks!
Well, the toothed blade--which looks kinda like the old electric shavers that the barber used to use on your neck--leaves a grooved surface. You easily can tell if the entire surface has been planed/grooved; then you can tell if the entire grooved surfaced has been removed (like with a smoother.) Thus, you can remove wood at an easily controlled rate, and not end up thinner in one area than another. It might be hard for you to contrive a way to hold pieces that small; maybe double-sided tape? But then you'd have a hard time staying flat...you'd have to figure tha part out.CharlieI tell you, we are here to fart around, and don't let anybody tell you different. --K Vonnegut
Jeff, Tom (tms) made one of these and posted in the gallery. Here's the link:
http://forums.taunton.com/tp-knots/messages?msg=21329.1forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Thanks, I'll be trying these different methods next week. I'll see how far my planer takes me before moving to the handplane.
Jeff
Jelly
Charlies right. Most planer manufacturers tell you that anything less than 1/8 inch is going to be consumed, even on a planer bed. I run all my resawn stock through my drum sander, with very good results. If you don't want to spend the $, you'll be dealing with this problem forever.
Jeff
The jellyrug was saying..
"just finished quite a veneering job this week-end, by resawing"
How do you find clients willing to accept completion statements like this?
I think what he was trying to say is that he made is own veneers by resawing. He was then asking about the best way to clean them up. I didn't interpret anything he said as having anything to do with completion statements for customers, but I could be wrong.
Cheers
Kyle
Edited 2/28/2005 1:08 pm ET by Kyle
Jellyrug wrote:
"just finished quite a veneering job this week-end, by resawing"
Cow replied
"How do you find clients willing to accept completion statements like this?"
Jellyrug's reply:
Cow,
Easy, if I was a client and I knew you were resawing your own veneer to match figure and grain, as well as produce a much more durable product than the real thin commercial stuff, you would have my business for sure.
I only use veneer, where there is no other alternative.
I don't build the kind of stuff you can buy in a furniture store as you cannot compete selling your hand skills and labor in this mass production Far East supplied market.
Hope this answers your question.
Edited 2/28/2005 11:47 am ET by Jellyrug
Edited 2/28/2005 11:49 am ET by Jellyrug
Jellyrug wrote:"just finished quite a veneering job this week-end, by resawing"Cow replied"How do you find clients willing to accept completion statements like this?"Jellyrug's reply:Cow,Easy, if I was a client and I knew you were resawing your own veneer to match figure and grain, as well as produce a much more durable product than the real thin commercial stuff, you would have my business for sure.I only use veneer, where there is no other alternative.I don't build the kind of stuff you can buy in a furniture store as you cannot compete selling your hand skills and labor in this mass production Far East supplied market.Hope this answers your question.
...........................................
Cowtown says...Not really.
maybe I didn't understand jellyrug's statement.."just finished quite a veneering job this week-end, by resawing"I gotta confess I didn't understand it then, nor do now, despite various "clarifications". I'd still like to know how to find clients who are willing to accept completion statements like that. No worries, good luck to ya. Cowtown Eric
abaolutely ecstatic cause he just must have "finished a kitchen cause the sheet stock is all cut up"
I wish!!! As if!!!
Cow,
Generally people here don't post to impress clients, but rather to ask for, or offer help.
Have you ever re-sawn your own veneer and how do you clean it up if it has some figure and you don't have access to a big drum sander?
Can you offer advice, or are you just here to criticize our posts?
Personally, I have no idea what you mean by "I'd still like to know how to find clients who are willing to accept completion statements like that." What the H is a "completion statement?" If you're obsessively focused on Jellyrug's use of the word "finished" I'd suggest you get over it and go on to something more constructive than criticizing his question.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
here here,
forest girl you beat me to it!
Cow town, are you ACTUALLY nit-picking his sentence? Are you just looking to pick a fight. Personally, I don't understand how you find clients who will accept vague comments. ...COMPLETION STATEMENTS?"
Relax , dear Girl (?)- he is obviously intent on farting around....
Aescheles said"It is only through suffering that we gain wisdom"
Er Jim,
Who is this Aescheles chap? Even though my relatives come from the Hellenic region I don't know this lad.... at the risk of further diversion can you elaborate?
I'm sure it's just the spelling - Try Aeschylus, a Greek tragedian. IIRC, he wrote 'Prometheus Bound."
Clay
If this is a one-time project you might find a local cabinet shop that will run the boards through their sander - for a fee. Although not as good, you can sand by hand or use a scraper.
Roger
this may not work on highly figured wood but I have had success using a board of MDF on the planer bed. This isolates the influence of the slight bend that occurs between the bed isolation rollers and the cutter head. It is also a good technique to use to set the feed rollers to minimize snipe.
Jelly, Have you ever thought about just buying the veneer?
Do you feel that sawing your own veneer is better than buying sliced, or is it to save money?
Most of the project is solid wood, but I'm using some veneered MDF in parts where I need stability and don't want wood movement due to the nature of the design.
There are two reasons why I'm resawing, one being to match exactly the grain and figure of the solid wood used in the project and the second being the quality of the finished project. I don't normally use veneer, only if I have to and then I want something a bit thicker.
With the thin veneers you buy today, a vacuum cleaner ding, or someone trying to sand out a dent in the future and it's spoilt.
If I had to do this a lot, I would invest in a drum sander, but for the few times, my hand planes do the job well with a bit of elbow grease.
The problem with figured Cherry is tear out, which my LN with a high angle blade handles well.
Hi RootburlI also saw my own veneer. There are a couple of reasons, but mostly sawn veneer looks more like real wood. Sliced veneer is cut off of a bigger chunk by either rotary cutting or plain slicing along the length of the wood. Either way, the thin veneer bends 30 - 40 degrees right at the knife doing the slicing. This tight bend stretches and breaks fibers and separates them a little from each other. It finishes differently and stains differently (not that I like to stain much).Also, you can use a little bit thicker veneer (1/16" max is what I use) and get some leeway for sanding or scraping. Most of my early veneer was sanded to thickness with a particle board table mounted under the bottom roller of a 6x48 belt sander. I'd push the veneer through against the movement of the belt. Now, I use a drum sander. To sand veneer below the minimum thickness of the sander (just less than 1/8"), I use double sided tape to attach a piece of formica to the table under the feed belt when sanding veneer. I may just attach it permanently and be done with it.
How wide are your veneers? If you've got a spindle sander, you can run narrower stuff between a single point fence and the sander drum to smooth out and thickness the veneer. Pretty tedious, but since you don't have a drum sander, this might be another option for you if you have an OSS.
If you build it - he will come.
I swear by the Performax 16/32 thickness sander. It will go right down to 1/16 inch and do the most delicate work you can imagine. It costs some 800 bucks, but its worth every penny.
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