| I am buliding a pair of QSWO media cabinets with frame and panel sides, and want to make my own veneered panels. I have not worked with veneer before. I plan to use a substrate of 3/16″ mdf and apply homemade veneer to both sides. I thought I could run my veneer blank through the planer between slicing sheets, so that each sheet has 1 smooth side. Then I could apply the veneer saw marks out, and then take a few light passes through the planer to clean up the faces. I plan on a finished thickness of 5/16″ so each sheet of veneer would end up about 1/16″ thick. Will this work, or will the stresses from the planer knives destroy the veneer? Tony |
Edited 3/23/2005 11:25 am ET by woodhoarder
Replies
why not just buy actual veneer the planer will eat that oak. try these guys they are the best http://www.oakwoodveneer.com
I plan to finish the pieces by ammonia fuming. If I can make veneer from the same boards as the rest of the piece, I know they will match.
Tony
I've used this technique before and it works very well. Once it is glued to the substrate, the oak will be no more prone to being chewed up by the planer than the original solid stock.
The finished thickness of the veneer should be as thin as possible, definitely no more than 1/16" otherwise it will start to act like solid wood, typically developing small checks and cracks in dry weather.
I use a slow set epoxy for veneer work because it doesnt add moisture to either the veneer or substrate thus avoiding some potential problems.
John W.
What is your source for the epoxy?
Do you press the pieces? Or is rolling enough?
Tony
I used an ordinary liquid slow set epoxy bought locally, this is a low tech application, almost anything will work well. If you wanted to be sure, check with a company like West Systems for a recommendation. I applied the epoxy to both the veneer and the substrate with a small three inch wide paint roller sold at Home Depot.
Because of the long setting time, the glue up will need to be clamped or vacuum pressed to hold the veneer in contact until the epoxy sets.
John W.
Woodhoarder,
I had a similar challenge a while back and the suggestion was using a drum, or wide belt sander to clean up the veneer. I don't own one of these and don't intend buying one, as I'm not into sanding, this being my last resort.
What I did is plane the board both sides, then cut the veneer on the bandsaw, apply to the substrate, planed side glued and hand planed the finished item, which had a large surface area. It came out really well and the hand planing part was the best part as far as enjoying the job.
Sending the veneered board through your planer may work, depending on the amount of figure. It did not work for me, as I got bad tearout and did not want to go to the trouble of having special knives ground for my planer.
tony - i think i would be real careful about putting a veneer panel through the planer with just a 1/16th veneer over the substrate.
i've been doing lots of veneers - but they are thicker - 5/64's.
after i cut them i drum sand 1 side - then press the sanded side to the substrate - when it's out of the press then drum sand the rough sides that are exposed.
depending on the use i either use cold press veneer glue or for bigger stuff - unibond.
jerry
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