When I was a machinist, I’d use a flycutter to plane metal flat. I don’t see flycutters being used to flatten wood surfaces. Is there a reason why? I am building a woodworking workbench and will have to flatten the surface after the lamination. I’m reluctant to run the glue lam benchtop thru my planer because of the impact of the glue to the knives (unless this is a myth). I am left with using a router and a jig to surface the top, or use a handplane, or both (my choice). I’d like to put a flycutter in the router and surface the benchtop this way to cover more material quicker, but I don’t see anyone selling flycutters for routers. This leaves me using a 1.5″ carbide cutter as the largest router cutter I can find, to face the material with. This is gonna take awhile! Any comments or suggestions??
Jumpman
Replies
If you mill your stock accurately you can get by with just scraping off the glue and sanding the mill marks off. I've glued up 4' x 8' panels with curved cauls and perfect alignment.
I wouldn't worry about the planer knives as long as you scrape off the glue chunks first. Some folks glue up in sections and run it through the planer then glue up the sections.
http://hersaf.com/cutters06.html
If you must... see the Hersaf router bit R2515 for doing CNC spoilboards.
You could always job it out to a local shop with a widebelt sander.
I agree with Rick. You should have the skills to glue up the top without a lot of work afterwards, just a little belt sanding. You do need to know how to mill your stock flat and straight. I prefer straight cauls for wide glue ups. The glue won't hurt your knives any worse than a piece of maple. There is a Safety Rotary Planer that is designed to go in a drill press, similar to a fly cutter. I don't think I'd want to run one in a router, I doubt if they could take the speed, even if you could rig up a jig to make it safe. I think it would be a little tough trying to flatten a workbench top on a drill press.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000DD2T3/102-0834970-4792140?v=glance&n=228013
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
The Hersaf R2515 router bit can be run at 18,000 rpm in a router and is 2-1/2" in dia. I don't believe the original poster was thinking about running a wing cutter in a drill press like the Safety Rotary planer. That tool was very popular with pattermakers.
I find the curved cauls to be invaluable as they keep the middle of the glue up in line. I see no advantage over a straight caul in this application. At least from my experience. Curved cauls are very useful in many carcase glue ups and rarely mentioned in many books or magazine articles. Probably one of the most useful DIY tolls and least known about. Some joker is even selling it as the "bowclamp", like he invented it.
There are plenty of homemade shop aids that you can buy these days, corner clamp blocks, push sticks, feather boards, router tables, etc. The bowclamp is a new one on me. I never could figure out why people would spend money on things that are so easy to make, I guess that's why I'm not in marketing.A couple of things bother me with bowed cauls. One is that they are a bit squirly to handle. I use them in pairs, clamped opposite each other. If you get a clamp on one end, the other end sticks up in the air, double whatever curve is in them. As you clamp them tight, the extra stress placed in the center of your panel can mark the panel face with a divot. This is more common with softwoods but I've had marks with hard species also. You can't always get enough pressure out towards the ends of the curved cauls. I switched to straight cauls, mill my lumber flat and straight, and don't really need too much to bring things together. One of the best things about using cauls is that you don't have to wrestle with a lot of clamps or have to position them top and bottom to equalize pressure and keep the panel from bellying. It takes some extra care when gluing up with finish milled stock but it's much easier in a small shop without a large planer and a widebelt. There isn't a need for some type of surfacing tool or machine, just a little sanding.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Been using curved cauls for over 35 years and never had the problems you described. My cauls are maple and typically 4' long with about an 1/8" crown over the length. The curved caul clamping method is derived from the technique of clamping veneers except you have plywood panels to sread out the pressure.
Several of you have mentioned curved cauls. I am relatively sure I know what you are talking about, but just to make sure, please describe, or even link to photo.
thanks,
Alan - planesaw
http://www.bowclamp.com
Here's an example of a curved caul. The T-slot isn't necessary and you can make them yourself! You'd think he invented the thing...
I have the maple on hand, cauls it is, followed by a trip thru my thickness planer. Thanks everybody for the great information. This forum, has become the best 'tool' in my shop....
BTW, you wern't kidding about somebody selling cauls called bowclamps. Any way to make a buck....;>)
http://www.bowclamp.com/
Jumpman
There are a number of articles in the FWW archive about how to flatten a large surface with a hand-held belt sander. You don't want to be using any fly cutting apparatus in a router for any reason on God's green earth. Use a coarse belt, on the order of 40 or 50 grit, and run it diagonally to the grain. Scribble on the whole surface with a soft pencil and sand. You'll see the low spots after the first time through. Repeat.
Bruce
I assembled my bench top and took it to a cabinet shop- They ran it through their drum sander for about $35 and gave it back to me perfectly flat- Can't beat it-
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