I’m going to make some plank doors (interiors doors, not cabinet doors) with tongue and groove material on each side of a ladder frame. The finish material is aspen which is not suitable for the interior frame. I need a material that will stay straight, be strong enough to hold hinge screws, and blend with the aspen when it is stained.
I was thinking of soft maple but am concerned about the staining part. Poplar is easy to work with, but I have heard it is not stable. Any suggestions?
John
Replies
Have you considered Alder?
Have you considered Basswood. It's a little soft but should hold screws fine. It's not as hard as Alder, but has fewer knots and the color is closer to Aspen. If you are staining medium to dark, the color of alder should be fine. Whatever you use , I would test the stain first.
I havn't really had any issues with poplar - In my experience, it's always stayed pretty straight, and stable - It's my number 1 choice for paint or stain grade work - Even for solid wood veneer substrate for that matter - You may want to look at poplar again
Gregory Paolini
http://www.GregoryPaolini.com
Custom Furniture, Cabinetry, and Woodworking Instruction
I would not count out the Poplar. In my limited experience it's as stable as many woods and more so than lots of others. It's available almost everywhere in nice, virtually clear boards and takes paint wonderfully (holds it too). It's been used as a secondary wood for centuries. It works well with power and hand tools. The only problem I've encountered with it is in staining. I'm sure there are experts here to tell you how to do that successfully as well.
Regards,
Mack
"Close enough for government work=measured with a micrometer, marked with chalk and cut with an axe"
There could be a misconception about poplar. I think both you and Greg are referring to Lirodendrum Tulipifera "spelling" as opposed to several other species that sometimes go by the same common name.
Tink
Poplar is easy to work with, but I have heard it is not stable... ?
A bit soft but very stable in my opinion. I use it for many things.
Have you thought about using something like #1 or #2 maple and then edge banding the frame with aspen before applying the faces? Then you would have a strong, stable, inexpensive frame and the visible part of the frame would be aspen. Just be sure to make the edge bands on the lock side thick enough to accommodate the bevel without going through the aspen.
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