Replies

1. 
   Bill_Richardson | Jul 02, 2001 10:46pm | #1

   *
   Jack, Is your project to be a free standing butcher block made entirely of wood or do you want to mount it on something?, ie-sewing machine legs, an old lathe base or as heavy duty kitchen counter top? I have made a number of these blocks for different mountings which I mentioned and I have mounted a majority of them on old sewing machine legs made of some pretty heavy iron. All of the legs have come from Germany where I lived for a number of years and I am now using up my last saved pair, made by a now defunct firm named "Phoenix", others were from "Stoewer" and a few no name leg sets, all from the pre-WWI era. There are still so many to be had over there, they sell for a couple of dollars a set and many people throw something on them and leave them in the garden. I'm sure that these legs are available here in the states too, I haven't checked around much tho'. I haven't saved any of the wooden parts from these machines, I have stripped the paint/metal down to nothing in some cases and others I have left with just some touch ups and a clear poly finish. My dimensions have varied depending upon the stock of beech that I had available to me and what I felt were reasonable sizes for a block. Once the block is finished they can be enormously heavy and if your not wearing a lifting harness and safety shoes, they're a wise investment. Most older blocks that I have seen that have come from a butcher's shop were relatively low affairs, somewhere around 30" in heigth and often 30x30" square, there are variations to this of course. My blocks have measured around 35" in heigth and one that I am about to complete is 31", english walnut side grain showing. So, depending upon what you feel is a comfortable working heigth, there are some dimensions for you. As for the length and width, I revert now to centimeters, my original plan shows that I wanted it to be 15x50x70, with the end grain showing. Because of its overall dimensions and with the end grain showing this would make a strong block that would last. What I ended up with was 15x41.5x71.5 and the inside dimension for the leg supports was 52, I had or have at least 4 dowels connecting those legs, one of WHICH MUST run diagonally to prevent whobble. If the block were to tip and fall over, broken bones would result for sure. Within those dimensions, I needed 84 blocks of beech that were cut/joined/planed/sanded to within a hairs breath of accuracy because my glue and simply joining the blocks face to face was my joint. Each block measured between 5-7 x 5-7 centimeters square, 15 high. The glue up required a lot of thought as even pressure would have to be applied from four sides. Bar clamps were the order around a glue up jig made from counter tops with a slick non-glue stick surface, the jig had a bottom, one side and an end to accomadate the block. When clamped up it looked and weighed quite a bit and took three men to manage it safely. Last but not least, the hardware has consisted of four wood screws holding it to the legs, (3/16 - 1/4" x 2 1/2") and the dowels are held in place by the same with a finishing washer for the screw to sit firm in. The diagonal dowel is held in place with much the same hardware at an inch in length. I use a Minwax "golden oak" stain on the dowels with a polyeurathane final protective coat, the block itself receives a coating of walnut oil or similar oil that won't turn rancid. I've switched from using olive oil. There are some other food safe finishes out there, check the archives.

   I think that dovetails will give you an interesting technical challenge incorporating them into each individual block and then into a butcher block. I have never seen anything done like that and certainly not with the end grain showing. Someone with more experience would have to comment on how that would work and whether they had seen a block like that. I am not trying to discourage you, the sky is the limit in my book, but I know what has worked for me in the last 15 years and is still standing in kitchens from Germany to NY state. I hope that I haven't been too long winded, but this is a project and a part of woodworking that I enjoy very much and anytime I can toot my horn, well.....I also hope that I have provided you with some answers you seek and not too much confusion, darn, I need to get all of my plans dimensions either in inches or centimeters don't I? Glad to clarify by remeasuring if necessary. Good luck.

1. 
   Jack_Woody | Jul 03, 2001 02:14am | #2

   *B.R. WOW!It would be nice to get some old sewing machine legs to set the block on. They could very well fit in to this old country kitchen. However, I'll stick with wood.> I saw it somewhere, but unfortunately don't remember where or when. Only that it was in the last 25 years or so. > The end grain was showing and the individual blocks were dovetailed together on all four sides. I remember thinking what a challenge it would be to do that. I could visualize a production run where long lengths of each "block" were machined then cut to length for each individual cutting block, then glued up, sliding,(or hammering), together one piece at a time thus building up the block. > Definitely a place for hairs breath accuracy! And that is the challenge!!!> I don't remember the thickness of the block I saw, but 8 to 12 inches thick of hard maple would last long enough to hand down to great-grand kids with maybe one or two re-surfacingsover the years to flatten. > As far as the actual size of and height of, they are yet to be determined. I'm 6'5" and like working surfaces higher than the average person. This block will be for someone shorter so 34 to 36" tall will probably be all-right.> Keep thinking about those dovetails and "THE SKY IS THE LIMIT.">

1. 
   Bill_Richardson | Jul 03, 2001 10:15pm | #3

   *Well if you want to have your block at 8 - 12 inches of thickness, your legs will still have to be relatively long or tall to come up to where, you as a tall person, can comfortably use it. I recently looked at an antique block that the maker had made removeable legs, they had been turned on a lathe and the screw at the top of each leg went into a corresponding hole underneath. The screws measured 1 to 1 1/2" across and the upper portion of the leg was basically a rounded off 4x4 as I recall, maybe a bit smaller. The block wasn't too high off of the ground and at $300.00 I thought it wasn't a bad price if you were in the market for one. The rest of the block was in pretty fair shape and considering that I have seen others in worse condition for more $$, the price seemed reasonable. Well, aside from all of that, dovetailing all of your block parts will be a challenge, even with the method you mention. I can only think that with the block you envision, your design could involve some considerable weight. I have seen some blocks that were in a way "hollow" on the inside, imagine a square box or hole up inside the block which reduces some of the weight. Imagine the block on its top, the outside row or two of blocks around each side would act or look like a skirt and the inside rows to the center of the block would be shorter, yet still within your dimensions for strength, stability and appearance. You could attach your legs with either a turned leg/screw as mentioned or with some other type of metal hardware, ie - a wrought iron leg attachment, much like a leg/ankle iron. There are so many variables and possibilities here for you. I know that it took me awhile of looking around at was available from antiques to more modern offerings. The latter was completely out of the question as being too wimpy, small, poorly constructed and too expensive. The antiques were just too expensive and there was no family history type connection to them. So after sitting down with the Mrs. and drawing things out and getting her opinions on what she wanted: fantasy and reality, we redrew it all out and came up with what I basically described in the beginning. Of course by the end it had developed into something much better. Once again, good luck and have fun.