Replies

1. 
   saschafer | Mar 16, 2008 05:44am | #1

   Well, there's not a lot of design involved, being as they're just rectangular blocks. Because stability is a concern in an unreinforced slab of wood, they're usually made of a stable core (plywood or MDF) veneered on all sides (sometimes with melamine on the inside of the cabinet). An alternative is to use something like Baltic Birch plywood (possibly with non-birch face veneers), and leave the edges exposed. This gives sort of an industrial look:

   View Image

   If you want information on standard dimensions, where to drill holes for hinges, etc., the first place to go is the hardware manufacturer's web site. For example, Blum has an extensive set of documentation that you can access here: http://www.blum.com/us/en/05/31/10/index.php.

   -Steve

    

   
2. 
   ring | Mar 16, 2008 10:52am | #2

   The cabinet industry, at least in Europe, is moving more and more towards these panels:

   http://www.tillygruppe.com/

   (look at the 3-layered hardwood panels)

   My shop has been using them for some years whenever we need a "slab" door. The edge shows the 3-layer construction, but at least it's all in the same species. For instance, in a cherry panel the inner core is also cherry.

   They are extremely stable, flat, and expensive. But IMHO the only reasonable way to produce slab cabinet doors and sleep well at night.

   David Ring

   http://www.touchwood.co.il/?id=1&lang=e

   
   

   ---

   Edited 3/16/2008 3:53 am by ring

3. 
   Dave45 | Mar 16, 2008 07:01pm | #3

   A timely question since I'm in the middle of an order for eight contemporary style cabinets with slab doors and drawer fronts.  I'm using beech with a clear finish.

   The doors and drawer fronts are actually relatively simple - cabinet grade beech ply with iron-on beech edge banding.  It's sorta fun not having to make rails, stiles, and panels for a change. - lol

   The biggest problem is making everything dead-on square.  The small gaps (~1/8") in contemporary styling leave very little "wiggle room" if everything isn't just about perfect.  I had to rebuild the first cabinet (a bathroom vanity) when I found that a very slightly out of square carcass showed up as an uneven gap between two doors.  I'm also waiting until the countertops are installed before I hang the doors and drawers.  The customer is using 2" thick concrete countertops and the weight can cause the carcass to do funny things.

   
4. 
   oldusty | Mar 16, 2008 07:56pm | #4

      cat ,

               When I make the flat slab type doors on a stain grade wood job , typically I use the Veneer of choice in 3/4" panels or plywoods with the layer of mdf core right under the face veneers some call this Armour Core and it basically ensures no voids will exist under the face skins and gives you a very flat surface .

        I edge band with solid wood , depending on the particular details will determine the size of band used . Usually I use 1/4" nicely trimmed or planed to begin with , top and bottom then trim and then I do the sides . I use glue and tape and clamps where needed then trim off flush or sand.

        For me making the banding not overly larger then needed means less sanding flush and less chance of burning through the veneers , hence why Ring and many use the alternate materials . Those materials sound wonderful but in reality may not be readily available or easily obtained by home and smaller shops on a onesy twosy basis simply because of the logistics and minimum order perhaps . Ring in his larger shop may buy way ahead of time and actually stock on hand the typical species as a staple .

                   dusty

5. 
   ring | Mar 17, 2008 08:46am | #5

   Just as a footnote to what I wrote before about using 3-ply hardwood panels, here's a photo of some kitchen cabinets done with maple 3-ply, then finished to a medium honey-brown.

   David Ring

   http://www.touchwood.co.il/?id=1&lang=e