Ive never tried plaster of paris to fill in open grained wood. how stable is it? and do have to worry about it drying out?
And if this is such a oldtimers secret, can anyone tell me if I can use lightweight spackling compound???
would eather,cause problems with staining,or finishing?
sincererly. C.A.G.
Replies
Hmm, now that opens up an intersting can of worms, CAG. Within the skilled polishers armoury, plaster of paris has its place. Typically it's used to fill the grain somewhere between staining/dying and final polishing. I haven't used spackling to effect grain filling-- but maybe you could thin it out and apply it in a similar manner to the dissolved lump lime normally used to create a limed effect.
Plaster of paris is mixed dry with a colouring agent, and normally I use water based powder paints. A teaspoon of dry paint in a cupful of dry plaster of paris is remarkably strong in its effect. Other colouring powders can be used, such as dry UTC's (Universal Tinting Colours.) The grain filling can match the general colour, or it can be a contrast.
The technique is to dampen a rag with water, dip it in the dry mix, and rub the loaded rag hard into the pores across the grain-- just a small area at a time-- followed up by burnishing off with hessian (US burlap) along with burnishing lightly with the grain too to get rid of cross grain striations.
Typically, the grain filling using this material is done after the background colour is established, and a coat of thinned film forming polish sealer is usually applied prior to filling. The sealer is important to prevent muddying the original colour, and a typical sealer might be any sort of film finish, such as varnish, shellac, nitrocellulose lacquer, etc., all dependent upon which polish routine is to be followed.
However, there are circumstances where you might fill the grain with plaster of paris without staining, dying, or even sealing with polish-- perhaps you want to affect the colour of the wood all over?
If you could be more specific in the effect you are after, maybe we could give you a more precise answer. On the other hand, I've written articles on this subject, and you could read a bit about it in the January 2003 edition of Woodwork out of Califruitcake-- I think it was January. Also, similar articles were published in F&C from the UK-- issues 77 and 78 from this year, and these might give you a bit more insight into the technique.
There are problems with the technique. It's physically hard work, pernickety and exacting. Also, you might find several decades from now that the whiteness of the plaster of paris coud start to become evident, but as you'll be dead by the time that might appear, I wouldn't get too excited about it, ha, ha.
It's my experience that once the stuff is in the open pores, it's there forever-- I've fixed a few bits furniture that are a couple of hundred years old that were grain filled using similar techniques, and drying out of the plaster wasn't really the problem. Rickety joints, worn drawer parts, missing veneer, etc., are usually the primary concern. Slainte.
Thank you Slainte
You have already told me more than I knew about useing plaster of paris.
here is what I am doing. I bought some 3/4 laun plywood ($17.00 for a 4x8 sheet) for all in general its the best ply. for the money.
now what I did was to glue up 16 peices together, and then turned it down to a 10" POST. It looks Great, except there is more end grain tareout than Ide like. so I was looking to fill the end grain tareout and then stain/seal the post, the goal is to replace a mahogany coner post. on a verry small buget.
Again the post looks like it will work. the color and the size is perfact, I just want the finish to look...
Ive tried wood fillers,and couldnt get it to match the color on a scrap peice after filling.
I remembered something about plaster doing end grain.(but I read it a verry long time ago.) then the thought that spackling could fill the tareout,(the product states it will work on wood. SO thought just "MayBe" it would work?
then again,on second thought, I just might try a colored wax if the stain wouldnt take.
I am just trying to find new ways to make ends meet.
THANK you again.
any sugestions are always welcome.
sincererly. C.A.G.
Curtis, Years ago, I knew the owner of a commercial cabinet making and store fixture contractor.
He introduced me to that trick He said it's old as dirt and cheap too.
Gesso was used by artists and wood carvers for centuries.
On occasion I've used joint compound and found it better. (Contains glue) Easier to polish/sand and sticks like gangbusters. Ever spill some on a floor/rug/etc? Stein.
CAG, in the US Famowood make water based wood stopper sold as filler. It comes in various wood shades. If you add water you get a sloppy mess which can be ragged into torn out grain-- I've used it to fill the edge of chip board prior to paintng. This might just do the job your're after. You can adjust the colour of the stuff with powder paints, etc., too.
I get the impression you don't need a full course on grain filling with plaster of paris, ha, ha. Slainte.Website
sincererly. C.A.G.
OH CRAP! who let my other personality out of the cage again?
Ha Ha!!!
wops, I am sorry but... I have always signed off useing my initials.
sincererly. C.A.G. :-)
My initials are the same...
>
Hey C.A.G., CAG has senioroity.... LOL
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish....
nope, check his profile, he's been here a bit longer.. but I don't frequent knots to often.
Check the dates again.
You 13NOV.
Curtis.... 12DEC.
Both of you 2002.
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish....
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