Replies

1. 
   RickL | Oct 16, 2007 09:19pm | #1

   Sure, put more spacers in to reduce the backlash. Some play is normal but if you can make it better, go for it. I've seen few tools that couldn't be improved upon in one way or another out of the box.

2. 
   JohnWW | Oct 16, 2007 09:46pm | #2

   The end of the gear probably wore away a bit of the metal in the frame that was normally protected by the washer making for more space to fill in. There's no reason that you can't add a washer or two to get a better fit. On some saws you can also adjust the mesh of the worm gear to remove play in the adjustment.

   John White

   
   

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   Edited 10/16/2007 2:47 pm ET by JohnWW

3. 
   forestgirl | Oct 17, 2007 06:12pm | #3

   I don't know if this article will help, but it might!  It's something I need to tackle with my old jet saw:

   http://home.pacbell.net/jdismuk/jetfix.html  It's from the Dizzy's Shop site, a good one.  He notes several things directed by the manual that are actually not good to do.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

   
   

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   Edited 10/17/2007 11:20 am by forestgirl

1. 
   gdblake | Oct 18, 2007 12:37am | #4

   Thanks, that link was very helpful.  The Craftsman saw doesn't have any adjustment for lash between the lift screw worm gear and the raising wheel gear.  Also, there is an arbor lock for the tilt mechanism, but none for the raising wheel.  The saw uses a combination of 1/64", .005", and .010" thick washers and a spring washer to adjust the amount of slop between the worm gear and the arbor housing.  What I wasn't sure of is how much freeplay is acceptable and necessary to prevent premature wear.  The article you linked leads me to believe my instincts were correct, only allow enough clearance for the lift gear to work without binding.  I have ordered some additional 1/64" washers to take up the rest of the slack.  

   Next stupid question.  Sears says to use 30 weight motor oil to lubricate the worm gear shaft.  Anybody got a better idea? 

1. 
   forestgirl | Oct 18, 2007 02:31am | #5

   I don't know if it's a better idea, but I like high-end bike chain lube or something similar that doesn't attract dust.  You'll get lots of ideas here.  I'm out of time.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

2. 
   BilWil | Oct 18, 2007 05:46pm | #6

   The expensive bicycle chain lube is great for the shaft and it doesn't get all gunked up like it does with oil.  I have an old Craftsman belt drive, bought it new in 1969.  It is now my job site saw, replaced the stand with a welded up wheeled unit of my own design.  It has play in the height adjuster, about 1/16 of an inch, and in the bevel,  about 3/64 of an inch, even after many shims and washers.  I did replace the shaft for both adjustments about 15 to 20 years ago.  Now, I turn the adjustment wheels beyond the place I want them and then back off till I'm on and then turn the adjustment wheel until i feel resistance.  Works for me.

1. 
   gdblake | Oct 18, 2007 08:22pm | #7

   Thanks for the information.  I bought my saw in 1978.  This is the first problem I have had with it in 29 years of constant use building furniture, building a house, remodeling a second house, and more "projects" than I can remember.  About ten years ago Sears sent me a coupon allowing me to purchase an upgraded rip fence and rails for around $100.  I replaced the belt and pulleys at the same time.   It was like getting a new saw when I did the upgrade.  I figure this fix will get me another ten to maybe 15 years down the road, which according to my wife, is about all I have left.