I was just looking at the “Which plunge router to buy” thread, it is a long but interesting discussion. It brought up a question, but I thought it better to start a separate thread instead of adding to that one. I noticed people have mounted plunge routers in router tables and I am wondering how well that works. I have had the standard Porter Cable for years, I don’t remember the model number but it is the 1 ¼ or 1 ½ hp non-plunge base. I have a shop made router table that I install it into and remove it from as needed. Kinda of a pain to do. Yesterday I picked up the Freud 3-1/4 HP plunge router from Woodcraft. They have it on sale for $129 and seemed like a good price for a larger name brand router. The question is which one to leave in the table. My first thought would be to leave the PC in the table and keep the plunge for hand held work. However it makes since to put the larger and heaver router in the table and keep the smaller lighter one for hand held work. So my question is how well will a plunge router work in a table?
<!—-><!—-> <!—->
Thanks for your thoughts on this.
<!—-> <!—->
Bob T.
Replies
The power of that Freud will be sweet in a table. I have their old plunge, the FT2000E I think. Moved that in after taking out a PC690 and it was a big improvement.
There are thousands of plunge routers working in tables around the world it would seem. Some people add an above-the-table adjustment gizmo (does your new Freud have one built in??) such as the Router Raizer. Some take the plunge springs out. With those adjustments and 3+ HP, what's not to like?
Hi Forest Girl,
I'm hearing so many good things about plunge routers. One person told me that the plunge can do everything the fixed base router can and more.. hmm not too sure about that. Yet the experts prefer fixed base routers for mounting under router tables. hmmm
Right now I'm deciding on whether to buy the Triton 3hp router or the heavy duty Milwaukee 3 1/4 fixed base (mainly because it's the only router that will fit under my router table plus it's easy to remove the motor when changing bits, It also has an above the table height adjuster) Right now I have the PC 690LRVS hooked up. Someone actually told me that the PC 7518 which I was also considering was JUNK... I was told the speed controller kept breaking on his PC 7518.Very surprised if not shocked to hear that. All the reviews I've read have rated the PC as one of the best production routers out there. It was recommended as one of the best routers for mounting beneath a router table.
When you installed the Freud plunge did it make that big of a difference? did you have any problems mounting it? One of the things I love the best about the 690.. adjusting the bit height couldn't be simpler. All you have to do is spin the motor up or down. On the Milwaukee you have to hold the motor and turn the above the table adjuster. so you have 2 hands occupied.
To get the most from my router table I definitely need a 3 1/4HP router to spin those larger bits. I saw some pretty HUGE freud panel bits at the Home Depot today. I had no idea they made bits that size... Don't think I'd want to use them.. LOL
Hard to purchase a router when you can't get your hands on the one you're interested in buying. If I buy the Milwaukee I will have to order it online. There is not one store here that has a Milwaukee 3 1/4 hp router in stock. The local tool store where I buy most of my equipment didn't even know about the Triton routers. I'd have to order one of those from Busy Bee in Nova Scotia. Kind of like to see the router before I make a decision. If only I had more experience with Plunge routers my decision would be easier. The Tritons are so well priced. That makes them very attractive.
would you consider purchasing a Triton 3 1/4 hp router.. without an above the table height adjuster?
Wanda
Wanda, Wanda, Wanda,
"Right now I'm deciding on whether to buy the Triton 3hp router or the heavy duty Milwaukee 3 1/4 fixed base"
Your indecision is killing us. Just go out and buy a router! Now!
-Steve ;-)
Hi,
Yes, I have to admit it's one thing about me that drives people crazy.... I am the most indecisive person....
Be so much easier if I could actually get my hands on a Triton or Milwaukee($400). wouldn't take me very long to decide. I like to look things over before making a purchasing decision. :)
$100 dollars less for the Triton ($300).. I could put that savings towards a LeeValley rabbeting bit set and a 1/4"slot cutting bit.
I'll soon be pulling my hair out if I don't make a decison. LOL View Image
WandaView Image
I'm out of the loop on routers since my "stable" of machines is pretty set for now. I use an older Freud 3+HP plunge mounted to a Lee Valley steel Veritas table. I'd suggest, if you want more input, to start a thread "Triton v. Milwaukee - Feedback please" and see what people have to say.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
>fixed base router can and more.. hmm not too sure about that. Yet the experts prefer fixed base routers for mounting under router tables. hmmm
"experts"? ;) I disable the springs with the flick of a switch, move the plunge up/down and then lock it with another switch. Can't imaging going back to a fixed base router.
>Right now I'm deciding on whether to buy the Triton 3hp router or the heavy duty Milwaukee 3 1/4 fixed base (mainly because it's the only router that will fit under my router table plus it's easy to remove the motor when changing bits,
Why would you have to remove the motor to change bits? Are there routers that would have to be removed from a table to change the bit? How antiquated.
For once, I agree with Steve. Just buy it. If you were in business, this would already be a $3000 tool and you don't even have it yet. :)
Andy
"For once, I agree with Steve."
Hey! Stop that! People will start talking....
-Steve
Wanda,
I bought the 3/14 HP Triton from Woodcraft for $215 - I could not pass it up. With the spring removed (takes about 30 seconds) it's great in a table. It does not have the above the table crank like the smaller 2.5 HP Triton but does have a fine adjustment knob that's really easy to use from under my Veritas table. The collet automatically locks when you raise it to its maximum height so bit changing is a piece of cake. I'm sure the Milwaukee is excellent but I was sold on the features of the Triton. I'm sure you can't go wrong with either one.
John L
Hi John,
That is hard to believe. A Triton for only $215. I'd have to pay out $310 if I wanted the Triton 3 1/4HP router. The Triton 2 1/4 here in Canada is selling for $199.00 Power tools are so much cheaper in the US. We're being gouged!
I went to Kent today to look for lumber but while I was there I couldn't resist looking at the routers. Talk about a poor selection. I tried the Dewalt 618, Bosch 1618 evs router. Can't say I liked the feel of the Dewalt plunge. A bit on the heavy side for a 1 3/4hp router. The Bosch was very easy to handle but the lever on that model appears flimsy. I prefer the levers on the PC routers. The wooden knobs were nicely positoned but again I prefer the feel of the black plastic knobs on the PC. The ones on the Bosch were a bit wobbly.
Before making my final decision I'm going to go into my local tool shop (the one that sells quality industrial/ professional tools and check out a few of their plunge routers. Unfortunately, they don't have much in stock.
Wanda
I have the smaller Triton with the crank in a shopmade table, and it's much nicer than the PC 693 that was in there. The only complaint is about the crank length - it's not tall enough to reach past even a standard hieght (2-3 inches) fence, let alone a tall one. Once the fence is in place I have to do the final adjustments 1/2 turn at a time if I want to work from the top.
Cut that metal 'thingy' crank in half and epoxy a dowel rod in the middle! Or solder a hunk of tubing in-between there...
... 1 ¼ or 1 ½ hp non-plunge base..
Just my opinion so take it for what it is worth.. as in free!
I have more than a few routers. The router table I use most is on my table saw and it's a PC 1 1/2 HP. (I think it's a 1 1/2 HP. To lazy to go and look). In fact I do not own a router larger than 2 HP.
No plunge base because I use a router lift. I cut some very hard woods like Jatoba, Purpleheart, Hickory, Etc. Using standard bits and my Lockmiter bits I have never needed more HP to do any cut. I do admit however that I take several passes making my cuts. (I would do that if the router was 5 HP!) Just the way I work.
If you plan to use a plunge router in a router table I'd check to see if your common bits will extend adequately above the table. This is just a thought because the base and table thickness may subtract from your maximum depth of cut. I could be wrong though because all of my plunge routers on a fixture are shop made and I cut a 'hollow' in the mounting table to bring the router closer to the surface.
I hope this makes sense?
Edited 10/31/2007 11:45 am by WillGeorge
It used to be a bit of a hassle to remove the springs on some plunge routers. There was a big old Craftsman that warned you not to do it because it would cause your machine to fall apart. Falling apart was a common feature of some Craftsman products. Freud should be a piece of cake. They make their own router tables and inserts, and expect you to use their router in it.
Jim
From a contrarian.
Is it true... Does a plunger router have to be mounted to an insert? That sure would complicate things. I though you could just remove the origional sub-base and mount the router directly to a piece of 5/8mdf or a 5/8-3/4" melamine piece of material.
I better go back and watch Gary Rogowski's video on the router. :)
Wanda
I do not like inserts of any kind.
Notwithstanding, for max expedition you must; there is no practical way to get to the collet whence the machine is bolted the top.
There is one installation that obviates the insert but it does require heroics. And there is still a window in the top but it is less of a problem. Let's not go there.
Plungers in the Table?
What? Do you mean maximum travel? This does not seem necessary. Doesn't apply to my plunge. Maybe it only applies to yours. I change bits all the time (from above) without removing the router from the table and I do not use any kind of 'insert'. In fact, the first para on your web page seems to be blowing a lot of smoke. I bought a router/table combo so that I would not need a second router in the shop. The one I've got works great both ways so far. Andy
Hi Carya,
Would you be so kind as to post a picture of your router.
Wanda
Hi Wanda, First post with pics so let me know if you don't see them. The 1619 in a Veritas table. Its mounted at a bit of an angle. Took an hour to assemble the table and mount the clamps that come with the table. Now, it only takes half a minute to clamp/remove the router but I only do that to use the machine off the table. Only done a few off table jobs so far: big stuff like deck posts/rails, toy train table edges, and a homemade circle jig. Remember it weighs 14lb. On table, I've done everything from louvres and train tracks to 6' posts and panels. Only been a few weeks so far and I don't have lots of spare time so the fun is only starting. I've run small to large (3 1/2") bits in the table (1/4 and 1/2" shank). Comes with separate collets. Easy changes above the table. You can tilt the Veritas top up but I only do that to remove the router. The lock near the front of the router locks the plunge movement. The plunge spring is disabled (quickly) for table use and the machine slides up/down for adjustment and then locks. Then I can use the fine adjustment for tuning. Easy to use power switch (in or out of table) with lock but I'm going to add a switch to the table to save wear on it. Note the Bosch comes with two inserts for dust collection and I only use both (better collection) with small bits out of the table. The larger collar collects most dust (not trapped above table) and I connect my central vac to the machine. I connect the shop vac to the magmount above the table. Even with the dust collection collar installed, I can hit the red lock button (from above or below) and change the bit above table with the one wrench. This is why I don't understand all the concern about removing the machine or using inserts or above table cranks. Just need to trust in Lee Valley. :) Also don't understand owning several routers. That route seems like a lot of hit and miss with the wrong machines. Andy
Hi Carya,
The pics came out nice. You're fortunate to own a LeeValley table. You've got the perfect set up. Now just imagine having to mount that 3 1/4HP 14lb router onto a piece of 5/8-3/4" melamine. You'd have to make sure the router you choose has a good plunge capacity. I guess that's why people choose to go with 3/8" inserts/mounting plates. And that only complicates things. I want to avoid mounting my router to a table insert.
Let me get this straight... To change bits you have to reach beneath your table, grab the handles and plunge that hefty 14lb brute up or down depending on the depth of cut you want. Then lock the router in place and then adjust the the bit to final height using the micro adjustment control knob..
I don't see what's so time consuming about changing bits using a fixed based router(one that is directly bolted to the table top) The plunge capacity is said to be better on a fixed based router. The motor releases with the flip of a switch. Remove the motor from it's base and put it upside down on top of the router table. Slip in the bit and tighten using the 2 wrenches (milwaukee) and slip the motor back into the base. Lock the lever and that's it. You can use the fine adjustment knob on the router to set the bit to its final height or the above the table T-wrench. Seems less awkward to me. Guess I'm just stuck on Porter Cable routers. I love the helical system.
I need to get my hands on a few plunge routers and test them out. :)
Wanda
Edited 11/15/2007 7:21 pm by Wanda200
That's the first message I've seen with no text Wanda. If you're whispering, I can't hear you. ;)
Andy
My advice, put the bigger router in the table. No problem with the plunge- take out the spring and it is fine.
I use my table router much more than handheld. Have had a PC in my table for a few yrs. and it just died. So without really thinking about it, I grabbed my Dewalt plunge (which I love by the way) and drilled a few holes and popped it under the table. Works fine. So until Christmas, when I get a triton with the built in lift for the table, my Dewalt stays under the table. Good luck. PMM
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled