Replies

1. 
   gpwest | Nov 05, 2002 09:07am | #1

   Dave,

       For years, I've been building cabinet drawers from 1/2" Baltic Birch plywood. I just cut a 1/4" deep X 1/2" wide rabbet into the insides of both sides and fasten the front and back with glue and 18 gauge nails from an air nailer. If you don't have an air nailer, brads or small finish nails will do; the joint gets it's strength from the glue-- the nails just hold it in place while the glue dries.   An even stronger joint, takes a little more time, is a dado and lip joint (don't know what else to call it).  You cut a 1/4" X 1/4" dado into the side, and rabbet off 1/4" X 1/4" from the end of the front and back;  this leaves a 1/4" lip that inserts into the dado in the sides. 

      Another technique I learned of on this forum about a year ago and works well is to make the bottoms out of the same 1/2" BB plywood and, instead of cutting a groove in the sides for the bottom to slide into, just glue and nail the bottom directly to the sides and front and back. Just be sure the drawer is perfectly square before attaching the bottom. This is not only quicker, it makes a much solider drawer. The metal drawer slides cover the edges of the plywood bottom.

     These techniques are good and effecient for cabinets, but for fine furniture, I still think solid hardwood and dovetails are better.     GP

2. 
   BG | Nov 05, 2002 01:49pm | #2

   Dave,

   GP gave you some great solutions..and probably the "rabbit/lip is what you want for attaching a draw front to the ply box.  Just be careful of your measurements and use some 1/8" shims, ply, whatever to change the blade cut line on the TS...lots easier.

   My favorite simple technique is to rabbit the draw front and attach the ply with glue and dowels...saves a little wood, good and strong... 

3. 
   billballeza | Nov 06, 2002 12:54am | #3

   Dave.. I'm a novice, too. I've built only nine drawers.. for two different projects. Something to keep your mind on no matter which technique you decide on is accurate measurement. Be sure to include the quarter inch dado depth when calculating the overall dimensions. Your drawers will need to be dimensioned with the slides in mind so that you will have the necessary clearance in the case. I use both dado/rabbit and biscuit joinery for drawers and case construction.. and the dimensioning changes. Just keep your mind focused as you measure and cut to save yourself any frustration. I recently wound up with drawers that were half an inch too wide for the case and the full extension slides I had purchased. I "solved" the problem by routing 1/4" grooves on either side of the case. But I'll tell you.. sticking your head inside a case as you rout a groove is like being inside a shop vac when it starts sucking up sawdust.

   bill

1. 
   fredsmart48 | Nov 07, 2002 06:52pm | #4

   And how would you know that?  :)

1. 
   billballeza | Nov 08, 2002 12:29am | #6

   Well, I dont.. yet. But I'm just getting started! LOL

   bill

4. 
   CRAIGCONEY_M | Nov 07, 2002 11:49pm | #5

   Dave,

    On plywood drawers 1/2" and under, I like to use the drawer lock miter bit from Lee Valley.  It is a very stong joint and I usually clamp my drawers up with only a couple of clamps as this joint will pull itself together. 

5. 
   DaveEsposito | Nov 08, 2002 06:38pm | #7

   Thanks all for your generous replies!

   Dave