I just built my very first drawers. I made them out of 1/2″ birch plywood. No fancy joinery — just biscuits, glue and brads. I’m using full-extention glides and “false” fronts. They came out pretty good, but I learned an important lesson — I should have used “baltic” birch instead of junky Lowe’s birch.
I’ve noticed on a lot of other cabinets that the 1/2″ plywood often has a rounded-over or bullnose detail on the tops of the sides. What type of router bit do I use to get that profile?
Also, I often see these birch boxes have a “gloss” to them. Should I be spraying or brushing on some type of clear finish? Or can I just sand and let them be?
Thanks.
TF
Replies
Hi AKA, Toolfreak ,
The Birch drawer will never break or fail the look of the core plies cosmetically of Baltic Birch or Apple ply is certainly nicer .There are many core voids in typical 1/2" Birch and most 5 ply products . The Apple ply and Baltic Fin ply can be 7 - 9 ply so it leaves little room for voids to be . I putty the entire top side of the drawer parts then sand smooth basically removing any saw marks .
Some may be rounded both in and out on the sides , are usually done before assembly with either a full 1/2 round or a bull nose router bit run on each side . Unless the side are taller than the face and backs there will be a gap at the top of the joint .
Finish in and on drawer boxes has been argued in favor of both directions over and over here on this forum. But to answer how : most are sprayed or finished with the rest of the piece in clear some are even stained then sealed . I would let the application dictate the method . It is really up to you .
regards dusty
Toolfanatic -
I often put a 'bullnose' on drawer side tops by simply using a 3/8" roundover that is set low to just take off the edge. I also spray or wipe on a coat of shellac which dries very quickly. Light sanding, and you're done. Good luck...
Les
I believe (because Norm said so) that some plywoods come pre-finished on both sides (from a show where he was building a kitchen island). It seems like a vastly better solution than finishing it myself (I won't be finishing it as well as they can). You would still need to finish the cut edges, but it seems that it should be possible to do that fairly easily.
I had to really search to find it. My recollection is the plywood cost about 20% extra.
But I warn you - this is all spoken with the confidence of a novice and I haven't tried it yet! Good luck.
Now you did it, you mention he who shall not be mentioned. Prepare for the on slaught. <g>
The prefinished ply is a fairly recent trend. I've seen a bit of it around but I've not been looking for it. Why pay for something you can do yourself? I second the baltic or russian birch much nicer ply. Only two things money can't buy, True Love and Home Grown Tomatoes...Misty River Band
the Pre-finished ply I've seen come with an aluminum oxide 2 coat finish... this is the same stuff that you get when purchasing 15 year warrantied pre-finished flooring.
I would argue no hobbyists and few pro's can apply this stuff due to the application process. It's tough, real tough. BUT you have to deal with a little more careful handling of sheet goods as you can scratch the finish and then you're in repair mode.. no fun.
BUT, the net-net is that these are the inside of drawers and frankly, I'm not sure you need that kind of finish for something that really doesn't need that kind of durability... floors, sure, drawers?
I personally do exactly as Scarecrow and others recommend, an HVLP applied single coat of 2lb shellac and a light sand. Easy to apply, works just fine, and looks good. Oh, Baltic Birch too :)
most of the pre-finished ply is 30-40% more $$ in my area. I use it for interior casework and kitchen cabinets.
michael~Michael
most of the pre-finished ply is 30-40% more $$ in my area
OUCH! I guess if you can pass the cost on to customers....
But being a hobbist I'd just as soon do as you do. I just lay down one coat of what ever the main finish is and lightly sand, declare victory and move on.
Only two things money can't buy, True Love and Home Grown Tomatoes...Misty River Band
Prefinished plywood I have found up here in Maine is only $8.00 a sheet more expensive. Unfinished runs 56.00 for A-1 and the prefinished runs around 64.00. I build kitchen boxes out of the prfinished stuff all day long. Glue and screw them together and they are done. Stuff works great just smells a little funny when cutting it. I couldn't apply 2 coats to a 4X8 sheet of plywood for 8.00. As in anything it has its place so use it accordingly.
JKB Wood
does glue work as well with the prefinish ... aren't you gluing the finsihed veneered part to unfinished end?
thanks, brad
I have been making my drawera using 1/2" baltic birch ply and dovetails cut on a jig.Sand the insides before assembly, outsides afterwards. Round the edges with a 1/16" roundover, just enough to break the sharp edges and make them a bit friendlier to the touch. Also a rounded edge holds finish better and rarely splinters. I tend to finish everything with polyurethane.
Most good ply suppliers carry prefinished drawer stock. This is a baltic -like ply, edge banded on one edge (the top edge in the finished drawer). It's also available w/ 1/4" grove for bottom. You can pocket screw front and back on, use false front and drawer is done. For glue use 'Roo Glue' made for gluing melamine. Drawer stock width starts at 4" with 2" increments.
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