How well does wrapping the plywood edges with solid wood work when using them as doors and drawer fronts. Seems like it would be ok on the side peices since it runs with the grain. But how about the top and bottom. Never tried it but this is the third client that has asked me about altenatives to lip molding or solid wood. I know the veneer tape works with square edges, but what do you do for routed edges.
thanks
Replies
I've done it. I works ok. Especally if you match the grain. But it's a dead give away on the end grain. Your going to have to miter the corners and that makes it obvious that it's two pieces of wood. I would make a sample and show it to your client. If it's acceptable then go for it. I don't really think it's going to save any money in the long run. The time it takes to make the edges fit will eat up any of the saving on wood. Maybe if it was paint grade it would be ok.
I still would prefer to make a drawer out of solid wood.
Enjoy,
Len
Been making these for years. Looks great too.
I usually rip 1/4" pieces from 15/16" stock. Before ripping, joint the edge that will mate with the ply. Don't be concerned with saw marks on the oter side as they will be removed. Be sure you've got a good ply edge with no voids and sharp edges.
To glue, I use cauls made up of 1/4" strips of 4/4 oak laminated together with a slight bend in them to create pressure when clamped from either end. This ensures a good even pressure and no gaps. With this system, you only need 2 clamps per door or drawer face. I don't miter the corners, just glue the ends on first, trim the excess, flush trim both faces, then glue the sides on. This will put the end grain up or down on doors where it's less visible.
I put a thin coat of glue on the band itself, not the ply. You'll need to tape spacers to the bar clamps to raise the panel up so the oversize banding will center on the panel. Let'em sit for 2 hours, unclamp, and glue another. On a run of doors, I usually glue all the ends, trim, and glue all the sides.
After flush trimming with a laminate trimmer, I sand starting with 150, and going to 220. Trim the banding on your TS to 3/16", use a 3/16" RO bit, and finish sand. To stain, be sure to use a prep such as shellac to get an even color.
I encourage you to think of banding the edges of plywood door/drawer fronts as a design opportunity, rather than simply a solution aimed at making the material look like solid wood for a lower overall cost. As a professional architect and amateur woodworker, I worked very closely with an excellent local cabinetmaker to develop an approach that actually became a key feature of an installation where the cabinetry is easily a centerpiece of the home's design.
Although the home is quite contemporary, we used wormy maple as the primary material, taking advantage of the interesting grain and "worm hole" patterns on all the cases, frames and fronts. They are all plain front - not the more typical and traditional design approach that one generally thinks of using maple.
All the edges are banded with a shop-made mahogany banding that finishes to only about 3/32" after sanding. With a band that thin, the issue of mitering at corners is moot - too thin to see, so we just lapped them, as Tom suggests in his post. The corners are all eased with a 1/16" round over just prior to finishing. The final light sanding eliminates any “feel” joint between faces and edge.
There are two finish "colors" used that reflect the base color scheme of the entire home - very pale gray and natural (light) wood - colors that occur on most walls (gray) and natural clear wood all the doors, windows, exposed beams, etc. Those colors are carried into the cabinets with either a clear finish or a very pale gray "wash" stain prior to the clear final coat. When the cabinet finishes were applied, the grain absorption characteristics of the mahogany produced a slightly darker result on the natural panels, and a pronounced darker color with the gray finish. The final effect? The beauty of the maple grain/pattern and “critter marks” is enhanced by a very fine line that simply defines the door/drawer edges and adds interest. We didn’t try to hide it; we saw it as the design opportunity to take advantage of.
Using plywood has a distinct advantage over solid wood for doors and faces, besides the economic and stability advantages one usually wants. Very wide doors, up to 36” on the refrigerator and freezer fronts, and matching vertical grain on sections of drawers, or a single drawer over a door became possible. Also, the cabinetmaker was able to order both book-matched panels, and multiple panels in a grain series, for some stunning effects that solid wood just could not produce. A key example is a 17-foot wide series of covered bookcases facing the great room along the kitchen island. The effect of twelve doors carrying across a book-matched grain, each enhanced with the faint line the banding produced by the banding is breathtaking and always brings raves from visitors.
This long post is intended to reinforce a key design philosophy that has served me well for over 30 years of architecture and carries well into my hobby of woodworking: if you’re trying to hide a detail, you’re probably overlooking options that can work to your benefit. The home I’ve been referring to received a major design award, and the judges noted the cabinetry and its creative detailing as one of the positive design features.
“Think outside the box” is an overused expression, but it really applies in these situations.
If you’d like some digital photos or other information, email me directly. Good luck.
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