Replies

1. 
   BG | Nov 26, 2003 04:37pm | #1

   Campbem,

   To get you started...

   http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/pages/h00016.asp
1. 
   tv190s | Nov 26, 2003 05:15pm | #2

   BG, Thanks, but this info about the different types of sheet goods (MDF, hardwood ply, particle board, OSB, etc....)I knew, so I guess maybe I need to be more specific.

   What's the difference between a $40, 3/4" oak/birch cabinet grade sheet of plywood at a big box store compared to a "cabinet/arch." grade sheet at a lumber yard other than it costs $75-100? I realize there will be price differences from species to species. But, these are like species comparisons I'm referring to (oak-oak, birch-birch)

   I'm assuming there's a difference, because how can they price them so radically different? When I hear a person at the lumber yard describe his plywood as "architectual grade", is that different than the cabinet grade at Lowes/HD? If so, how? The couple sheets of Birch ply I got at Lowes last month were pretty nice (I thought). They were flat, smooth, and look beautiful now as my new desk.

   So, is there a difference in the plywoods I describe above?

   Thanks,

   Matt

1. 
   BG | Nov 26, 2003 05:45pm | #3

   Campbem,

   There is a difference, I was hoping a link on that article would take you to a further explanation.  I don't remember all the facts but, after the differences of the core, you have sliced, flatsawn, bookmatched, and quality/quanity of knots.  Depending on what your making, you can pick through the HD, Lowes stock and pay less to achieve your desired ends. I pay $70 a sheet for bookmatched birch...no visible flaws on one side...but if my piece is only 12" wide...then I can cut up a cheaper sheet and no one would ever know. 

   You need to find a chart on the web that lists all the options...I know mnay of the plywood manufacturers have this on their website...darn if I can't find it...

1. 
   tv190s | Nov 26, 2003 06:06pm | #4

   OK, I'll go back to that page and try some of the links. I probably

   will stick to that plywood (Birch) for my next project because of

   cost. As for the quality part (cut), I would certainly understand that

   and how it effects cost.

   One last question - Should I then assume that cabinet grade and architect. grade are the same thing? Sure sounds like it.....

   Matt

1. 
   BG | Nov 26, 2003 07:24pm | #8

   Campbem,

   I'm glade the others chimed in...I continued to search and found out that few standards exist across manufacturers. 

   http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodbasics/vendors/mcfeely/pages/aboutplywood2.htm

   The attached article was interesting and provided some additonal links...

2. 
   GHR | Nov 26, 2003 06:06pm | #5

   For most work the $40/sheet stuff is suitable.

   The big difference between the $40/sheet and $100/sheet is that the more expensive material is matched across sheets and kept in order.

3. 
   notDusty | Nov 26, 2003 06:36pm | #6

               campbem ,               The grades can be confusing with plywood , generally the cut of veneer , whole piece face (wpf) which is rotary cut as opposed to plain sliced(ps) or it may very well be what they call split face or camp run anything goes.So you have the type and cut of face veneers as well as the type and quality of the back skin. The core is equally important it may be a C core or a D core. The better grades of select veneer plywoods mostly have what is often called armour core where there is a ply of mdf or a particle bd ply right under the face skins on each side . This ply eliminates core voids directly under the face skins and is a safer choice to use on a nice project .Some panels have a nice face veneer but may have a back with some open type of knots or some putty patch.For cabinet interiors and the likes one clean side may be fine .When you get into the Cherry , Rift Sawn Oak , Quarter Sawn Oak, Walnut, select Maples , VG Fir , you will pay $85-$125 a sheet . That is why the armour core is so important, you can not afford to waste much material at that price.At most lumber yards unless they are a hardwood supplier ,they probably couldn't tell you about the grade except what specie it is, and maybe if it is a shop grade or on grade or certified . I hope this helps.               dusty

4. 
   BDuck11 | Nov 26, 2003 07:10pm | #7

   Other than the core construction, the big difference between grades of panel products is the quality of the veneer used on the faces. Not all manufacturers adhere to standards set by the Hardwood Plywood and Veneer Assoc. (http://www.hpva.org) and the American National Standards Institute (http://www.ansi.org), but most do. If you look at the edges of panel products, you can usually find a stamp that indicates the grading of the faces on both sides--most often expressed with a combination of letters and numerals. For example, A-1 signifies a very good quality. (AA is the absolute best.) The specifications on veneer quality vary with each wood species, so the actual grading can get quite complex. Terms such as architectural, cabinet, or shop grade are less precise descriptions and may be used differently from one supplier to another.