This is my first time here….so thanks in advance for your advice and help.
I am designing a master bath addition for some folks, and want to use some marine grade plywood paneling. Panels will be in the room, not in the shower area. I figure marine grade will help resist the high humidity of the room, even though the panels will not be in direct contact with water. I want the panels to be aprox. 18″ to 24″ high, and they will be from 12″ to 48″ wide. I prefer the joint between panels to be fairly minimal: I could detail a piece of hardwood routed out on the back side to allow some movement of the panel, but then I have a fairly wide joint element. I have thought of using a simple stainless steel bar inbetween panels to establish a contrasting material look, but frankly, other than adhesive, I am at a loss as to how best attach the panels. I am thinking of using 1/4″ veneer panels, cut to size, then adhesive applied to a 1/2″ plywood substrate, with the stainless steel rods also applied with adhesive, but I am not sure if this really makes for a long term solution. I would really appreciate any advice or suggestions, or referrals to sites that might have actual details drawn to illustrate possible solutions. Thanks.
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Would marine plywood really be necessary? If the humidity is that high wouldn't there be a serious mold/mildew/decay problem as well?
If there will be any of the typical bathroom "furniture" such as vanity, medicine cabinet, closet, there will be lots of wood products in the master bath that would in short order be damaged by extreme humidity levels, regardless of the finish. Drywall and perhaps even plaster would also fail relatively quickly in extreme humidity. Wouldn't the vent fans minimize humidity and condensation?
Regarding the panels, are you wanting to just butt together panels side by side without any visible seam? And will the panels run floor to ceiling? I started out thinking you wanted a "frame and panel" look with plywood panels, and then started to wonder.
Good points about other items and materials reacting to humidity. I always spec a good quality exhaust fan, such as a Panasonic because they are relatively quiet and move a significant amount of air.
In terms of the plywood, I also had a hunch that the marine grade would resist cupping or other deformation better than conventional grade material.
My preference for the joints is to have them minimal:butted together panels with hardwood edges of the same species of wood would be my ideal. I'm just not sure of the best way to accomplish that without surface mounted fasteners, particularly when you get to the last panel to be installed. I have considered using a cleat mounted on the back of the panel that would mate with a corresponding piece secured to the wall. I am concerned that I am starting to detail the entire room as a piece of cabinetry and that the budget won't support that level of work.
Any other thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks.
You raised a number of issues, and I'm the first to say that there will be many viable options here. A few thoughts:
1. I think your use of marine ply is overkill. If the paneling does not touch the floor, and does not actually get wet, then I'd prefer a substrate that will make the installation easy, preferably MDF. I know some people are going to get up in arms about MDF in the bath, but if the panels are glued up correctly and prefinished completely with a good barrier to moisture, you're home free.
2. Using adhesive is perfect. Use a good construction adhesive and pin the panels in place with a 23 ga. pinner until it sets.
3. You're going to have a reveal where the panels meet. You can minimalize it or emphasize it. But any inaccuracies in fitting the wall are going to show up here. One solution is to create a 1/4" reveal between each panel, which will vary slightly according to need. The edges of the panels must get banding in this case. Another approach is to use a profile (your stainless?) to cover the edges of every panel. Of course you could use a "T" molding to do the same. I'd say the options here depend mostly on the look you want in the room - clean, modern? traditional?
DR
If you opt for thicker plywood/veneered sheet stock, you could use a keyhole bit with screws set in the wall. Templates would be helpful in locating the slots and with the screw placement. Hopefully you can put a plywood substrate on instead of drywall to take the screws where needed instead if working around the wall stud locations. The screws can be set to require lightly tapping the panel in place with a padded block and hammer so they aren't loose when done.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=30113&cat=1,46168,46176&ap=1
Another possibility is the use of clips like either of these. The downside would be setting the holding friction and unless inset into the panel, will leave them sitting proud of the wall.
http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=2&p=41869&cat=3,40914,50427&ap=1
http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=2&p=40349&cat=3,40914,50427&ap=1
A final method is to make small dovetail sided blocks screwed to the wall, that corresponding dovetailed recesses in the panel fit over.
Edges can veneered/banded as necessary and metal "moldings" screwed to the edge of each panel on one side, for the contrast.
Whatever finish that is applied to the face should also be applied to the backs and edges to ensure they stay flat.
Bent veneered panels or a coved/radiused piece of solid would "soften" the look by allowing the eyes to follow the panels around the corners.
Hope to see the results posted someday.
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