Since Covid I’ve been reading a lot and need a place to put my books. I want to build a bookcase that is low profile (2’-3’ tall) and 4’-5’ wide. Seems like a lot of people use plywood for the case but I’m wondering if hard maple would be a good choice instead?
I’m relatively new to bigger projects and wondering what the best route to go is?
Thanks!
Josh
Replies
I use plywood when I'm painting something. If it will get a clear coat, I only use solid wood.
You can certainly use plywood and edge it with solid wood strips or moulding. I just prefer not to.
Veneer-faced plywood or blockboard of high quality is often a good choice for the simpler or less elaborate items such as a bookcase. The edges can be hidden with solid wood lipping of the same kind of wood as the veneer.
Years ago I managed to acquire several 8ft x 4ft 3/4" thick blockboard sheets, some faced with a good quality and quite thick (1/28") cherry veneer and some with maple veneer, on both sides. There was also an under veneer of around the same thickness with the core made of some sort of lightweight hardwood blocks.
The veneer was flitch-cut rather than rotary cut, so once pieces were lipped with solid cherry or maple, it was hard to tell that blockboard was the main constituent of a piece. One clue is that items made with it are significantly lighter in weight than they would be if made entirely with solid cherry or maple.
These days, such high quality veneered sheet goods can still be found but the price has gone up a lot and not many places stock it, in the UK at least. It may be different in the US.
I've used this blockboard in many projects, including bookshelves. It's easy to blend with solid hardwood parts (lips on cabinet sides or frames around tops and similar) such that the whole thing looks like it's made of solid-wood planks.
Blockboard is quite stiff, even in just a 3/4" thickness. Good quality birch plywood is too but not as stiff as blockboard. You can get MDF sheets similarly veneered but this stuff still sags easily and is best avoided for load bearing items such as bookshelves.
One drawback is that block or plywood edges can't be joined at the corners with joints such as dovetails or fingers, as the plys or blocks would show.
Lataxe
PS Here's a link to a PDF brochure from a UK supplier of veneered boards, to show the kind of thing available:
http://www.timbmet.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/8293-Timbmet-Veneers-Brochure-WEB.pdf
I think a pic or a sketch, and your tool availability would help narrow down the scope of advice.
But for a simple bookcase, I would use maple and stop dado the shelves with a router cut.
The joints can be reinforced with Miller Dowels and I would practice a few runs on scrap. Best!
Many people have a prejudice against plywood, when a good quality plywood is stronger and more stable than solid wood. Plus easier to find in wide widths. Choice to me depends on whether its more of a utilitarian piece, or meant to be a showpiece. My bookcases are full of books so the wood is not very visible, so plywood.
Plywood definitely has it's advantages.
Working with hardwoods is pretty cool.
Look for hardwood dealers or mills near your house.
Maple is dense and and will be heavy.
Cherry is a very reasonably priced hardwood not as heavy as Maple.
Just be aware 3/4" hardwoods have some weight
Seconding @Lataxe. Again.
I have found that there is little difference in cost when using really nice veneered ply or MDF as compared with the equivalent job done with solid timber.
There is, however, a massive time and convenience difference - If you make your case out of a timber species for which you can easily get matching veneered 1/4 inch or 6mm MDF or ply then you can have a matching back piece for almost no effort.
veneered MDF is also ideal for larger desks and tables where wear and antique value in the future is not likely to be an issue.
IDK about where you live, but ash is pretty cheap right now and looks fabulous - It's been easy to get 230mm wide x 50mm boards from which you can get 2 3/4 inch pieces ideal for a bookcase. Sometimes it's worth experimenting with an alternative timber to use what is cheaper rather than sticking with the old favourites.
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