Please excuse if this is off topic for this forum, but I’m having trouble finding information on retrofitting an existing door opening for a pocket door installation without completely taking down the wall. I know the dry wall will have to come down on one side and the studs will have to be removed for the new split studs that come with the kit. Any other issues I need to think about? I’ve searched on YouTube, but nothing explicitly like I want. Maybe I’m using wrong search terms. Thanks in advance.
Allen O.
Replies
pocket doors
I've never installed one, so I can't be of much help. You might, however, try posting your question on the Breaktime forum over at Fine Homebuilding:
http://www.finehomebuilding.com/ then, click on "Breaktime" in the navigation bar.
Pocket door
Like Ralph I haven't installed on either. But a good lumber yard should be able to give you the rough opening size ! That's all I would need.
You will need to open up the wall, remove studs, bottom plate, add a stud and jack and run a header the full length of the pocket door assembly. The size of the rough opening will depend on the size of the door, approximately double the door +. The frame kits are set up for a modern 2x4 interior wall with 1/2" drywall on each face. All the instructions come with the kit. The pocket door frames I use are a metal frame with horizontal 3/4" boards already installed for nailers. Make sure you use short screws and nails, or you will nail through into the door pocket. Be aware, a bearing wall will need the appropriate header and installation procedure, and check the wall before you start for electrical or plumbing.
Whoa! slow down
The first thing you need to do before you cut a big hole in the wall is do a little structural investigating and make sure you aren't compromising some structural integrity. If you don't know what to look for then I would hire a framing contractor with a lot of experience in home construction to determine what the wall is holding up. You may have to install a header and possibly add support below the new trimmer added under the header. Pocket door frames are not structural.
I prefer a wood pocket door frame as opposed to the metal ones. Personal prefference.
When adding trim in the area of you new pocket door, remember to use short nails. It's embarrassing to nail the pocket door shut, or open as the case may be.
I usually frame my rough openings for a pocket door at door width x 2 plus 2 inches and then door height plus 4 inches. So for a 2/6 6/8 door the rough opening for a pocket frame would be 62" x 84".
Good luck, Bret
Pocket door Retrofit
I would disagree with the previous commenter. I prefer the Johnson 1500 pocket kits for flexibility and added items to make them work smoothly. You can order the Johnson pocket kits in 6/8, 7/0, or 8/0 tall sizing, they are flexible from a 2/4 to 3/0 wide size. You can easily fir them out for wide walls, and put in spacers for an 1 3/4 vs 1 3/8 door. The standard setup out of your local home center, lumber yard, or door shop is usually setup for a 6/8 1 3/8 door. If you want a great product order 2 - Johnson ball bearing rollers $12ea to go with your door. Don't script on hollow core consider solid core (hardboard)+ $50. Your rough opening on a 3/0 6/8 1 3/8" door would be width x 2 + 1" or (36"x2 +1" = 73"), Height + 4 1/2" or (80"+4 1/2"= 84 1/2"). Avoid the Quality 100 square notch style $15, or the Kwikset round pocket locks $19, as they will eventually let your down. Consider buying Emtek 2104/2105 full mortise pocket hardware $100, or even better (Von Morse, Baldwin +$150-$300). Some will buy the Ives finger pulls and use a rectangular or round bypass cup on each side, but I find this to be a little old school for me and frustrating to lock if you have to put in a goofy metal rocker at eye level. Good luck, and consider finding a local door shop or lumberyard Pro that does this for a living in your area. That person will get you the right parts the 1st time, and save you multiple trips and frustration by not getting what you want from the rookies. The people that know there stuff will agree with what I stated, with the exception of the frame kits. Frame kits are Ford vs Chevy in the construction industry, with good arguments on both sides.
The R.O. should be: door width x 2 plus 2", for the wood pocket frame. This allows for a jamb or liner on the strike side of the door opening. If you disagree, it's easier to pad the R.O. in than to make it bigger.
The upgrade on the rollers and track is probably a good idea.
My name is Bret, "previous commenter" sounds a bit impersonal.
Bret
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